Week Two in Fremantle

Yes, we are still in Fremantle, but working hard and playing only a bit. Yesterday was the Perth Zoo and Saturday was two Maritime Museums in Fremantle, plus a tour of a submarine. Today is work -- painting, plumbing, sanding, varnishing, sealing, organizing. Tomorrow we work on our sails at the loft (to help speed their return) and "enable" the Furuno technician to reassemble our system and "improve" our Furuno vs. MaxSEA contention.

We hope to head off to Hobart on next Monday, March 5th. Depending on how we go, it is about 2000 miles. We currently believe that we will have to do our "usual trick" of heading south until we get cold, then turn left until we run into land. This time we will have to go a bit further south, eventually to 43 degrees, 40 minutes, the latitude of Whale Head on the southern side of Tasmania. Well into the Roaring Forties.

We have developed a few impressions of Australia, or at least Fremantle:
1) they are just about as car-oriented as Americans;
2) obesity is almost as endemic as in the States, a big change from the poorer countries we have recently seen;
3) lots of dogs;
4) Fremantle is very dry, so lots of great outside restaurants;
5) very friendly and open, at least superficially;
6) huge beer focus, even though this is one of the top wine producing areas;
7) seems egalitarian, while there are a few BMW's and an occasional Rolls, everybody generally appears to be a very level society, with similar dress and "one class of service";
8) no apparent incoming "underclass" who trim the lawn, work as dishwashers, street sweepers;
9) immigration is a hot political issue;
10) Western Australia is the end of their supply chain — many say WA means "Wait Awhile" not Western Australia.

In a previous post, I mentioned that a wave took away the top of our steering compass. A local wood turner made a lovely Jarra Wood replacement, with an old Australian penny embedded in the center, complete with kangaroo. Photo above.

All is well.

At the Fremantle Sailing Club

The Schooner Maggie B is still at the Fremantle Sailing Club, though they have moved us to the VIP berth right in from of the Club House, where we get a constant stream of visitors.

We will be here for at least a week or two. Lots of boat work to do, plus we have to sightsee some. We haven't even gotten into Perth as yet.

For boat work, we have the sails off at a loft getting touched up; lots of sanding for varnishing; stove gas system overhauled (again!); the main Furuno box in to get its circuits tested; the toilet overhauled (again!); new blocks on order; new Yanmar fuel filter sensors ordered; parrell beads being made from Jarra wood; a new top for our steering compass also being turned from Jarra, with an old Australian penny in the top; bilge cleaned; interior and exterior paint touched up; replace some worn halyards and furling lines; etc., etc.

Fremantle is wonderful.

The weather is bright and hot, but with a nice sea breeze. Being part of the western desert, the air is rather dry, more like Colorado than the humidity of the Seychelles. Freo, as it is called, is strongly Italian in background. Certainly all the restaurants are Italian. The Fisherman's Memorial in town lists all the names of fishermen lost at sea and the names are almost 100% Italian. The local small "quick" supermarket has 20 different kinds of olive oil and 40 different kinds of salami. The big club in the middle of the park is The Italian Club.

One other thing we have noticed is how many very tough cars there are. These are the big Land Rovers or Toyotas with four wheel drive, extra road clearance, roof racks with three extra tires and two jerry cans of fuel, six extra lights on the front, two shovels strapped on and big "Roo" bar protection for the grill. Obviously ready for the worst that the desert roads can dish out.

Hannah has had a continuing saga with the African drum that Willis left on board for her. It has Springbok leather and Australian Customs has, after much toing and froing, confiscated it and sent it to Willis in the States.

One Customs issue that made us very, very nervous was that part of their checklist was "What anti-fouling do you have?" We were hauled and repainted in the Seychelles in December, but I could not remember the name of the paint and they did not press it. Certainly there has been a change away from the toxic stuff that everyone use to use. I suspect that the stuff we used in the Seychelles may have been something that is now outlawed in Australia. Could they kick you out of force you to be hauled, scraped and painted? I just don't know and don't want to find out.

Last night the Cruising Section of the Sailing Club had a barbecue, where the Maggie B was the treat. We perhaps had 50 visitors on board. She is looking her best, even after 16,500 miles.

All is well.

Antigua Classic 2006 | large [4.5mb]

Video ©2006 by Aguafilms

Go to Acquafilms web site
Antigua 268 725 7873
Antigua 268 726 2782

Location: 32° 04 S, 115° 45 E
Saturday 16:30, 02.17.2007

The Schooner Maggie B docked at the Fremantle Sailing Club at 1630 local (UTC +9). We are at 32° 04S, 115° 45E. We cleared Customs, Quarantine and Immigration in about an hour and a half with only the loss of all our fresh provisions. Striped Dolphin escorted us in the last few miles.

4545 NM in 24 days from the Seychelles. Average 189 NM per day, 7.9 knots average speed. Top wind speed, 52 knots (true). Top boat speed 17.4 knots.

More to come. Hot showers, restaurant meals, and cold Australian wine next.

All is well.

Antigua Classic 2006 | small [2.8mb]

Location: 33° 05 S, 111° 12 E
Friday 12:00, 02.16.2007

The Schooner Maggie B's noon position today was 33° 05 S 111° 12 E. We were headed on a course of 078 degrees magnetic, directly for Fremantle at 10 knots (hull speed). The wind is perfect for us, 300 degrees magnetic at 22-30 knots. We have a long swell behind us that occasionally has let us surf up to 16 KNOTS! This is for a 35 ton wooden gaff-rigged schooner! We have 229 miles to go to Fremantle, and have come 4316 from the Seychelles.

IF, and at sea any future is a big if, we arrive tomorrow in Fremantle at about noon, we will have been almost exactly 24 days from the Seychelles (five days Seychelles to Mauritius, 19 days Mauritius to Fremantle). We will have covered about 4545 NM, which would give us an average of 189 NM per day or 7.9 knots, 24/7. Fast cruising, just what I asked Nigel for!

This morning I noticed that the fore peak gaff topping lift halyard had managed to tie itself up in a knot on the pin rail. It was under quite a bit of pressure but couldn't be loosened because of the way it was tangled. I went to the cockpit and asked Bori and Owen for the Tweaker and the Prussik line, which they handed me from the lockers. As I sorted out the tangle, I though of how specialized language becomes on a ship. A Tweaker is a Canadian (?) term for a light block and tackle with a whip rope on either end that can be used for a variety of temporary purposes. Others would call it a Handy Billy, a Purchase, or a Come-along. A Prussik is a climber's knot that can grab and hold a line under strain, but easily release and slide when the Prussik is released. With a Prussik line (short loop of strong but lightweight line) and the Tweaker, I was able to take up tension on the halyard enough to release the messy knot it had made on the pin rail.

In the same way, on a gaff sail, there are many round metal pieces sewn into the sail, to take different pieces of line to hold and control the sail. If those round pieces of metal are at the bottom (foot) of the sail, in the corners, they are cringles (tack or clew), if they are in the top, head, corners, they are thimbles (throat or head/peak), if they are along the boom or gaff, they are grommets or eyes (head or luff). Of course, if they where you reef, they are cringles, except in the middle of the sail, where they are points.

National Lampoon has a hysterical short audio on their site called "Rigging a Ship" where a man with a thick accent just recites accurate historical ship's parts. It would surely get you a drink on the house if recited in any Yacht Club bar in the world.

Now that, as I write this, we have only 190 NM to go to Fremantle, I am conscious that we have the hard part of the trip ahead of us. Finding our way through the reefs behind Rottnest Island, landing at the Quarantine Dock, making Customs happy, finding a spot for the night. Much harder than Blue Water!

All is well.

Three days from Fremantle, 2.15.2007

Supplies are getting low at least for fresh food, being 2 1/2 weeks out of Mauritius. But we continue to be inventive for our communal noon meal. Today, with the help of the "All Around the World Cookbook" by Sheila Lukins, I made Irish Soda Bread, which came out pretty well. We then had Butternut Squash soup and a horizontal Pissaladiere. We have lots of onions for the onion tart, and olives, but sardines instead of anchovies, and the Soda Bread instead of puff pastry. It was delicious!

Location: 33° 49 S, 107° 29 E
Thursday 12:00, 02.15.2007

The Schooner Maggie B was at 33° 49 S, 107° 29 E at noon today. We are headed due East magnetic, right for Fremantle at 9.6 knots, with the speed varying from 7.5 to 12.5 knots with gusts and surfing swells. We have made good 800 NM in the last four days and have 430 NM to go to Fremantle. The wind has been from the SW at 20-25, but we are expecting frontal passage soon when it will switch to NW 20-25. We are continuing with both main and fore with one reef. Freo for Saturday night! Hooray!

Supplies are getting low at least for fresh food, being 2 1/2 weeks out of Mauritius. But we continue to be inventive for our communal noon meal. Today, with the help of the "All Around the World Cookbook" by Sheila Lukins, I made Irish Soda Bread, which came out pretty well. We then had Butternut Squash soup and a horizontal Pissaladiere. We have lots of onions for the onion tart, and olives, but sardines instead of anchovies, and the Soda Bread instead of puff pastry. It was delicious!

Waves at sea are endlessly interesting. The ocean here is a steel grey when it is cloudy, bright sapphire blue when sunny. But not necessarily a nice blue. Very hard. White caps are totally different than watching a wave break onshore. On shore the froth leads the wave and is the main action and attraction. At sea a breaking wave can be spectacular -- you can see why they are called "white horses" -- but immediately as it breaks, the wave leaves it behind. It is as if the wave "has places to go, things to do" and isn't interested at all in something frothy and frivolous. Occasionally a wave will peak up near you and, if you are lucky, you see the light through it and it is a bright, light, shiny blue that reminds you of beaches in the tropics. Then it breaks over you and beach thoughts are forgotten as the "bright shiny blue" water finds every tiny opening in your foul weather gear and fills your sea boots.

Quote of the Day: 'Tis the gift to be simple, 'tis the gift to be free.
'Tis the gift to come down where we ought to be.
And when we find ourselves in the place just right,
'Twill be the valley of love and delight.
When true simplicity is gain'd,
To bow and to bend we shan't be ashamed,
To turn, turn will be our delight
Till by turning, turning we come round right.
(Shaker tune)

All is well.

Commanders Weather Corporation
Wednesday 12:00, 02.14.2007

From: Commanders' Weather Corporation
Route: Port Louis, Mauritius to Perth, Australia
Position: 33 32s/103 29e at 1200utc Wed, Feb 14
Prepared: 1330utc Wednesday, February 14, 2007
Summary:

As is frequently the case in the Southern Oceans, weather systems are fast moving and frequently more robust than expected - this will be the case with the cold front over the weekend, going into Perth

High pressure trailing the cold front that passed you earlier today, is located just NE of St Paul Island and will remain well to your W, so no risk of SE winds going into Perth

There is a 2nd cold front located near 40-42S/95E at 1200UTC Wed

a) this front will move more E than NE, but will cause your winds to become more WSW or even W
b) directly downwind, so split gybes - I would probably go back to port gybe, only to keep you further N and away from the stronger winds associated with the Fri night/Sat cold front. In addition, the strongest winds will be NW winds and an approach from due W of Perth will be favored
c) you may get a brief squall and a little left shift in about 21-24 hrs, but any SW winds will be brief, behind this 2nd cold front

Intense gale near the Kerguelen Islands at 1200UTC today will move almost due E

a) pressure will be down to around 950 mbs near 45S/110E at 1200UTC Fri
b) I think part of the energy for this low came from ex-TC Dora

Anyways, you will see freshening WNW and NW winds on Friday - they could be quite strong, but as you know, fairly smooth sailing until just before the cold front arrives

Late Fri night/Sat morning will be the greatest risk time for squalls

a) winds will shift into the SW to take you into Perth
Routing

Like what you are doing now

When winds back into the WSW and W, probably port gybe

a) will have a brief period of starboard/SW winds as the 2nd cold front passes

Port gybe at Perth with the big NW winds on Fri

a) likely will be passed by a cold front before you reach Perth, whichmeans starboard again
4) Sorry about all the gybes!
Wind Forecasts
Wind direction TRUE, speed in kts, time is UTC
Wed, Feb 14
18: 240-210/16-24, maybe a brief squall to 30 kts
WeatherChangeable skies, maybe a brief squall or 2, especially this evening and again late tonight/Thu morning
Thu, Feb 15
00: 230-250/16-24, winds more S-SW and lighter to the N and more WSW/stronger to the S
06: 230-260/16-22
12: 240-210/12-18, sailing into the high pressure ridge, nr 32 50S/107 10E
18: 240-280/ 7-14
WeatherChance of an early squall then partly cloudy. Seas will diminish daytime, but W-SW swell will increase again later at night
Fri, Feb 16
00: 280-310/12-24
06: 290-310/25-35
12: 280-300/28-36, near 32 30S/111 30E
18: 280-300/25-35, maybe a squall over 40 kts
Partly sunny daytime with seas increasing to 12-18 feet. Increasing clouds overnight with an increasing threat of squalls - seas up to 15-20 feet
Sat, Feb 17
00: 300-240/16-24 and squalls over 40 kts
12: 240-210/16-24 - Perth
Squalls ending during the morning then cloudy to partly cloudy. Seas 12-18 feet, but falling throughout the day.

Location: 33° 32 S, 103° 29 E
Wednesday 12:00, 02.14.2007

Happy Valentine's Day! We are all thinking of friends and family distant in space but close to us in our hearts.

At noon today, the Schooner Maggie B was at 33° 32 S, 103° 29E. We are back on starboard tack, making eight knots straight for Fremantle, which is 625 NM away. Three days at this speed. The wind is from the Southwest at 22 knots. The waves are playing with us a bit, but rarely get to more than 15 feet. We had cold front passage at about 0830 this morning -- some rain and wind, but not much of a fuss. We jibed with the wind shift from NW to SW (remember -- opposite from the Northern Hemisphere).

In the last three days, we have made good 585 NM towards Fremantle.

I forget to mention earlier one little indication of the conditions we had last week. In all the photos of someone at the wheel, one can see the lovely old-fashioned Danforth steering compass mounted on the binnacle. Nice safe position -- right? During the blow, one wave came over the side, took off the top cap of the compass and kept going right over the side. People used to say that Neptune/Poseidon takes presents from sailors, if not properly gifted. We gave him a nice dollop of Madagascar rum at the start of this leg, but perhaps that wasn't enough. I think that he is wearing our brass compass cap as an earring now.

We have two powerful navigation systems on the boat. Furuno's NavNet2 and MaxSEA 12.5. Japanese and French. Neither country has any Army, so they seem to need to get their hostilities out through technology. Furuno and MaxSEA get along like...two bulls in a boxcar. Last night I got up to find that our principal Furuno system was completely frozen and would not restart and the MaxSEA on my laptop had crashed Windows (not that tough, I know). It was like two boxers who had been going at it until neither could rise. MaxSEA eventually restarted, but was taken offline from the Ethernet ("Go to your room!"), but the Furuno multifunction display will have to go to the hospital (French 1; Japanese 0). But we have redundant Furuno systems, so Owen and I removed the old primary display and brought in the slave, which had been set up at the helm station. The understudy finally got to come on when the Star broke her leg! But, of course, Owen and I had to hack into the code to persuade #2 that it was #1 now. But all is now working well. Hopefully there is a great Furuno dealer in Fremantle.

The "to do" list for Fremantle is up to 25 items. The merchants will be glad to see us.

Regular readers have followed my diatribes against Lewmar blocks. Five failures! Yesterday I got an email from the Lewmar Block Product Manager! He asked how he could help. I sent him a long letter detailing the failures and what I believed the cause to be (bad engineering!). I wonder how they heard about the Maggie B? Nigel says that he approached them at the Paris Boat Show. Or perhaps somebody called them up after seeing my pictures of their broken blocks. I can't believe that they have a "bot" that searches the web for comments about their products, but that is a possibility.

Quote of the Day: "You only live once, but if you work it right, once is enough." Joe E. Lewis (1902-1971).

All is well.