Location: 43° 20S, 146° 13E
Tuesday 12:00, 04.17.2007

It was so hard for all of us to leave Hobart, but we are incredibly thrilled to be in Port Davie on the Southwest Coast of Tasmania, a part of the Southwest National Park and World Heritage Area. We are anchored in Swan Cove of Bathurst Harbor, at 43° 20S, 146° 13E. We sailed and motored around last night, passing through the lovely D’Entrecasteaux Channel at night (again!). Perhaps we’ll see it in the day when we head back to Hobart. It is only about 100 miles around, but some complex water. We were passed from lighthouse to lighthouse like a partner being passed from hand to hand in a contra dance. We saw some incredible phosphorescence where the creatures were joined together in rectangular blocks the size of a large loaf of bread. In some places there were perhaps 100-200 “blocks” all glowing away well before being stimulated by our passage. Group sex, we decided.

The entrance to Port Davie is invisible from the sea and guarded by some very scary tooth-like islands. Once inside there is every sort of cove and harbor. Some are just big enough to anchor across with bow and stern to trees, others have room for a fleet. Some places have romantic names like Black Swan Island, others less so like Starvation Cove. There is no development, no roads, no buildings and only one very rough path. Where we are anchored we can see 10 miles in most every direction, and there is not a single light or dwelling. The water is the color of strong tea (bourbon whiskey?) from the tannin in the run-off. We went swimming when we arrived (16C or 63F — brisk!).

The landscape rather reminds us of wilder parts of Scotland or Newfoundland. Matthew Flinders, the first to circumnavigate Tasmania, described the Southwest as “The mountains are the most dismal that can be imagined. The eye ranges over these peaks with astonishment and horror.” We find it much nicer. Pictures to come to the web site.

We rowed ashore in the Reep and climbed a small hill along the shore, which is unnamed. It has been christened “Mount Maggie.”
Onboard we are six. The four crew H/B/O (Hannah, Bori and Owen) plus the Captain. Joining us as crew is Theresa Chapman, a 24 year old Australian. Along for the fun of the trip is Claus Heinrich, a 22 year old German friend of Theresa’s, and now of us all.
Today is Hannah’s birthday. Owen baked her a lovely chocolate cake with chocolate icing and sparkles.

We plan to nose around here this week, returning to Hobart on Friday, then hopefully being off to New Zealand next week.

All is well.