Location 38° 40.2S 178° 01.7E
Thursday 12:00, 05.31.2007

Safely docked at the Gisborne Inner Harbour Marina

The Schooner Maggie B is safely docked at the Gisborne Inner Harbour Marina at 38° 40.2 S 178° 01.7 E. We were a bit delayed in entering by a huge grain carrier that required us to standby outside. Once inside (after dark but full moon) the chicane to find the inner harbour was less than obvious. We’ve gotta stop arriving in strange harbours at night, especially as the wind starts up. We are snugly tied up and ready for the blow, which is just starting as the barometer falls rapidly. Hannah is ashore checking out the showers and Owen and Frank are sampling South Island wines (thank goodness that the sommelier remembered to chill them!). Theresa is helping to finish off our Tassie Beers.

All is well.

Location: 41° 33 S, 175° 04 E
Wednesday 12:00, 05.30.2007

The Schooner Maggie B got underway from Wellington at 0900 on May 30. At noon we were at 41° 33 S, 175° 04 E, making 9 knots powersailing. We are headed up the East Coast of the northern island, hoping to get to Gisborne tomorrow afternoon. We are going as fast as we can as there is a real blow coming in towards the end of the week. The plan is a long weekend in Gisborne and then on towards Auckland, with perhaps some exploring in the Bay of Plenty.

We hauled out in Wellington yesterday. They have a very interesting “travel lift.” It doesn’t travel. They lift you out vertically and then slide the “floor” underneath the boat. Only NZ$200 (@US$150), including the use of a pressure washer! We cleaned off the hull, replaced the prop anode, and checked for damage, which was minimal.

The damage was from grounding out on our way into Greville Sound in D’Urville Island last week. We had to cross a “boulder bar” and it was just at low tide. We had 15-20 feet of depth in the channel, but I didn’t have enough speed and the last of the ebb spun us out of the channel and onto a ledge, where we sat for about an hour until the tide came in. The lead got a bit chewed up as photos on the web site will show (next posting probably Friday).

One nice thing about New Zealand cops is that they don’t carry guns. They do seem to get stabbed regularly according to the news papers, and they have applied to get Tazers. Needless-to-say there is lots of “left” opposition to such a “harsh, violent” accessory.

Some people get a souvenir tattoo in New Zealand. Real Blue Water Skippers get a new facial scar. I went to see a dermatologist about one suspicious piece of skin on the top on my ear, but he zoomed in on a dark spot on my cheek. “Premalignant!” he cried, “It should come out.” I asked for a suggestion of a doc in Auckland and he said, “Oh, I have some time now and we’ll get it right out — do you want local anesthetic or a shot of rum and a wooden stick to hold in your teeth?” I hate surgeons with a sense of humor, and chose the local. Now ten stitches later, I look even more like Keith Richards as the Pirate King.

All is well.

Schooner Magge B in Wellington, 25 May ‘07

The wind has stopped blowing in Wellington and it is as if we are all deaf. for the first 3-4 days it was pretty steady 30 knots in the inner harbor. Blows the head right off your shoulders!

We are getting to know Wellington better and really like what we are finding. It is complex, artistic, scenic, walkable, and creative. We all love the Te Papa, the new national museum which is only 100 meters from the Maggie B (photos soon).

As part of our Crew Training Program we all went off to the Opening Night of the latest of the Pirates of the Caribbean movies. It was shown in the glorious Embassy Theater, a true Movie Palace, built in the 1920’s but completely restored in 2003 for the opening of the Lords of the Ring series. We should have been in costume, as many were. The movie was fun, one of the highlights being Keith Richards as Pirate King (he didn’t need any make-up…..).

Last night we went to the Yacht Club to get information and pointers from local yachties. However, it was Rock and Roll Night, and if we got any pointers, they were forgotten. The crew mutinied, declaring it “Too Old,” but the Captain knew the words to all the songs and had a fine time.

We have made a beachhead at The Welsh Dragon, which declares itself to be the only Welsh Bar in the Southern Hemisphere. Music and singing every night and the Barkeeper is very Welsh, full of stories and song. Pushed only a little bit by her comrades, Theresa sang “Waltzing Matilda” to the crowd, which produced the expected Aussie/Kiwi “banter.” We escaped with our lives.

Bori is off tomorrow to return to Hungary, a big step for her and us. She has been with the Maggie B since before she was launched, all the way except for the Brazil-Cape Town leg. She will be missed and we hope the best for whatever will be her next “ship.”

After the weekend we will be looking for some sort of Southerly, to that us up the coast to Bay of Plenty and then on to Auckland, which is about 400 NM away by sea.

Moving forward

Today is a sparkling sunny day in Wellington, New Zealand and the world seems to be in order. Ducks are playing on the dock. I am leaving the boat at the end of the week to go home to Hungary and move on towards other things in life. Hannah gave me a card that says: “don’t cry because it’s over, smile because it happened.” That is how I feel today, even though I left the shores of Nova Scotia in tears, I am smiling now and am amazed to have sailed on three oceans on this beautiful journey.

I feel grateful to have been able to be part of this adventure and I would like to thank all of those who have been with me on this voyage. Friends and family, I’ve felt your presence all along and that feeling of connectedness made me strong and made me trust that things were going to be all right even on the roughest seas. This feeling gave me a reason to keep on going and gave me a place to look forward to going back to, a home, a country, a family and my friends.

I am also thankful for the wisdom I’ve gained through all the lessons that were given to me. I am learning to respond to the natural ebb and flow of the universe, I understand that one cannot sail against the winds. Before leaving I told a friend about the importance of adjusting the sails depending on the winds. That is what I will keep on doing as I move forward and I will remember the perfection I’ve seen in all things. I am grateful for those moments of clarity and beauty I’ve encountered on the sea.

Being alone on deck, sailing on a night with dolphins swimming by us in the silver moonlight on the shiny black water. Rowing Reepicheep on the green-blue ocean in front of high grey-green rocks in New Zealand. Sailing under a full rainbow in a light tender rain between two islands in Seychelles. Crossing the Indian ocean and running on deck in gorgeous sunsets with albatrosses flying around the boat.

Sailing through the Marlborough sounds with family of gannets flying around the boat in the morning sun.
Watching the sun shining down on the water in a track of stars that looked like the perfect road to walk on. I smiled.

I feel as though I have family all over the world now. I have met some beautiful people on this journey and have seen myself reflected in their eyes and I believe they’ve seen themselves through me. I see and understand life more clearly now and it all feels like an unending 360 degree circle on a rock, one that starts where it ends and ends where it starts. I hope to be able to see this clarity and keep it in my heart as I move forward from here.

Location: 41° 17.3947 S, 174° 47.050 E
Tuesday 12:00, 05.22.2007

The Schooner Maggie B is safely tied up at Chaffers Marina in Wellington, NZ. Our position is 41° 17.3947 S, 174° 47.0503 E, We had an easy crossing of the Cook Straits with not much more than 25 knots wind, in lovely clear weathr with favorable tide. Tomorrow the Straits are due to get another front with 45 knots. Whew!

All is well.

Location: 40° 55.7 S, 173° 57.9 E
Monday 12:00, 05.21.2007

We are moored in Homestead Bay, Port Ligur, in Pelorus Bay. We are at 40° 55.7S, 173° 57.8E. Port Ligur is rather grand as a name for a place that has three houses and one boat. There are oyster farms all around, so maybe there is more action than it appears. The wind has petered out, at least where we are, surrounded by mountains. The sky is clear with the new moon bright in the West. “Town” has just a single light on.

We have only come perhaps 10 NM as the crow (Black Oystercatcher?) flies. But we covered more like 30 NM as we came around the North end of D’Urville Island and then outside Stephens Island (Takapourewa) and its wild lighthouse. The wind was variable from 10-35 knots and we sailed with the main with two reefs and the jib. The seas west of D’Urville were quite rough with the swell from the old storm, wind waves from the new blow and 2-3 knots of tidal current kicking in from time to time.

Last night at D’Urville Island was a bit hard. We were well protected all around by hills, but the 50 knots outside would hit the anchorage in puffs from time to time, and rather spin us around. We were moored to a Tasman Bay Cruising Club Mooring, three tons worth, with a huge new cable attached. Thank goodness. The puffs would hit us from North to East to South to West and then back again. We would lurch back and forth. It was strong enough that we would take a 10-15 degree heel from one side and then the other. It was strong enough to knock the boom out of the boom gallows even with the main sheet tight! In the morning, we found that we had dragged the three ton mooring about 300 meters Southwest (we couldn’t tell at night because it was very, very dark in driving rain). I will write the TBCC Commodore and offer to pay to have it returned to its spot.

We went ashore during the afternoon to fight our way through the thick forest to the ridge. It was a interesting walk, though rather difficult. But the real joy of going ashore was that Theresa discovered wild oysters and mussels along the shore. We played caveman and hacked a few dozen oysters off the rocks and ate them on the spot. Delicious! We then gathered mussels for the rest, which were cooked that night in garlic and onions.

This is a very serious weather area. Thank goodness that the Maggie B is a big, strong ship. Today the forecast for the Cook Straits between the north and south islands was “55 knots North, easing tonight to 45 knots North.” Easing to 45 knots! But tomorrow it is supposed to just be a “light 15-25 Northwest breeze.” We plan to cross the 46 NM to Wellington tomorrow.

All is well.

Location: 40° 51 S, 173° 50.4 E
Sunday 12:00, 05.20.2007

The Schooner Maggie B is moored safely in Mill Arm, Greville Harbour, D’Urville Island, Marlborough Sound. We are at 40° 51S, 173° 50.4E, on a Tasman Cruising Club three ton mooring. We are happy to be on a mooring because they are calling for a proper storm outside, with wind to 50 knots. We are getting occasional gusts to 30 knots from one direction and then another, as the wind bounces off the high hills all around us.

The clouds are streaming by overhead, working their way down the hills. We will probably be pretty closed in by tonight with rain and more wind. Tomorrow we may work our way around the corner more into the middle of Marlborough Sound, or we may just hide out here and start a Marathon Team Scrabble game.

Earlier I mentioned the endless complications that every country seems to impose when you try to get back GST/VAT taxes. New Zealand has a system that recognizes Ships in Transit, so that you can avoid paying the taxes to begin with. It Works! Purchasing major items for the Maggie B can easily be done without the 12% GST sometimes just by saying you are In Transit, sometimes by showing the Customs Form and your passport. What a pleasure! I suppose that it helps that the Kiwi’s current tax problem is that they have huge surpluses and are mostly arguing over how to spend them. But in any case I’m wearing my All Blacks Rugby shirt in appreciation.

Nelson, and, I suspect, every major NZ port, is very well set up for boat refits. We used a great outfit called Dickson Marine for two projects, and they were quick, accurate and reasonable. The stainless steel forming shop was just down the street, “Boat Bits” and three other ship chandleries were within three blocks, hydraulic specialist around the corner, etc.

All is well.

A Forepeak Full of Wine

The Schooner Maggie B got underway from Nelson, NZ at 1100 on May 19th. Tonight we are anchored in Greville Harbor, D’Urville Island, also known as RangitotoKi. D’Urville Island is the Western wall of Marlborough Sound. It is only 40 NM from Nelson, but quite wild. We are again only 40 NM from the Northern Island, but across the very rough Cook Straits, which seems to attract weather from everywhere.

It is completely calm tonight but tomorrow there are forecasts of gales up to 50 knots for our area and especially Cook Straits. We plan to find nice spots in Marlborough Sound for Sunday and Monday and then catch the brief opening between gales to jump across Cook Straits for Wellington.

I neglected to mention that last Sunday we had a lovely road trip from Nelson to Blemheim, in the heart of the Marlborough wine country. We went first to my long-time favorite NZ winery, Cloudy Bay, where we loved their Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir, and bought a case of each. Then on to a marvelous lunch (see photos on the web site) at Vintner’s Retreat. Tapas all around - marvelous. Then two more wineries and a few more cases. We tasted everything though did spit out most.

Our final stop was Nautilus Winery, which was stunning. They do export and I suggest that everyone try to track them down. The Maggie B used to be “sitting back” a bit with the bow a bit high on the painted waterline. Not a problem any more. Nigel must have planned it that way, for us to need to fill up the forepeak with five months worth of wine. How fine it will be to be sitting inside the reef at T’aaa, waiting for the sunset with the perfect Marlborough Sound Sauvignon Blanc?

Today in our motoring up to D’Urville, the calm waters produced at least 30 dolphin playing around our bow. We have never seen them so thick — they were like kids fighting in a playground.

All is well.

Trying out a Spade anchor

One new Nelson friend, Adrian Faulkner fell in love with the Maggie B. He was, however, shocked about our main anchor which is a 80 pound CQR. He had gotten to know the French inventor of the Spade anchor, which is quite different in design. I said something like “well, everybody has their favorite anchor.” Or words to that effect. The next day he brought by a thick package on all sorts of careful tests by several different independent organizations, which proved that the traditional “plow” anchor was pathetic and the Spade was terrific. That caused me to recall that the Maggie B did drag in Barbados, the Seychelles and twice in Tasmania. All were in notoriously bad holding grounds. But then I thought of the anchoring challenges ahead of us in the Marquesas, the coast of Chile and Patagonia, and all of a sudden a “top rated” anchor seemed much more attractive. While the Spade anchors are excellent, their availability isn’t. It is run by Frenchmen.

Adrian is off to Southeast Asia for five months and has loaned us his anchor with the understanding that we either get it back to him by his return or get him a new one. I’m hoping that the overdue shipment will arrive in Auckland by the time we get there. Meanwhile we’ll try it out in Marlborough Sound and the Bay of Plenty.

The essential difference is that the “plow” anchors plow up the bottom. I have definitely seen it happen in Barbados. The Spade digs in. Also the plow anchors have a big proportion of their weight in the shank and not much in the tip, which needs to dig in. The Spade has 50% of its weight in the tip and supposedly digs in so hard and fast that new owners think that they have snagged an underwater cable. We’ll see.

Tawhirimatea joins us

The Schooner Maggie B is still tied up at the Tasman Cruising Club marina in Nelson, NZ, waiting out a classic Kiwi Souwester. It is blowing 25-30 knots in this rather sheltered port, and lots more off shore. We now think that we will be off on Saturday, heading just to D’Urville Island on which makes the western part of Marlborough Sound, and then on to Wellington after a few days in Marlborough Sound.

“Our exciting news is that we have acquired a Guardian for the boat. Tim Wraight has made a carving of Tawhirimatea that has replaced our boom end cap. Tawhirimatea is the Maori wind deity. Tim left the tongue blank instead of the gale-like swirl that is usually seen on it, so that we don’t get too much wind. It is made of Totara wood and paua shell. There are some great photos up on this site.

One new Nelson friend, Adrian Faulkner fell in love with the Maggie B. He was, however, shocked about our main anchor which is a 80 pound CQR. He had gotten to know the French inventor of the Spade anchor, which is quite different in design. I said something like €œwell, everybody has their favorite anchor.€ Or words to that effect.

We get our anchor “in Spades.”

Fire sparks bed appeal?

The crew of the Maggie B is settling in well in New Zealand. We are already finding favorite restaurants, laundromats, bookstores, cafes, and bars. The Nelson marina has more interesting boats than anywhere we have been, with the exception of Antigua during Classic Race Week. New photos should be up on the web by tomorrow.

We are in the midst of the usual series of little fixes, adjustments and preventative work. Owen and Theresa are making new pendants for the main sheet attachment to the boom, Bori and Hannah are re-sewing a protective strip on the mainsail batten pockets. We have taken “Strika,” the kayak, to get a nose fitting so we can tie her up alongside. The boat cover for the Reep is getting patched. Our “T-joint” for the dual oil pressure sensors is getting replaced by something more permanent (the Mauritian one failed after two months). Our new steering compass is getting swung tomorrow. Theresa finally found a pesky leak in the vent for the diesel space heater. Tomorrow I overhaul the toilet (whee!).

Nelson is the biggest commercial fishing port in the Southern Hemisphere (they say). There is absolutely every marine-related service organization right nearby. They have successfully come to specialize in integrated refits for commercial and pleasure craft.

New Zealand is very enlightened in many areas. One amusing area is that they have legalized prostitution and made it subject to “standard workplace regulation.” We don’t know nor will we find out just what that means. We did see yesterday one of the most marvelous articles in the local Nelson paper. The headline is “Fire sparks bed appeal.” It goes on to say: “A Napier brothel is soliciting donations of old beds so that it can resume operations after a fire….’Club 100 has been giving out to Hawkes Bay for more than 25 years, now it is time for Hawkes Bay to give back to Club 100′, said manager Paul Hale.”

All is well.

Location: 41° 15.8 S, 173° 16.8E
Monday 12:00, 05.07.2007

The Schooner Maggie B arrived in Nelson, NZ this morning at 0700. We are currently safely tied up in the Nelson Marina at 41° 15.8S, 173° 16.8E. The gale last night was about 50 miles East of us in the Cook Straits, where the wind tends to funnel. We got very little of the weather, which was fine with us. The crossing of the Tasman Sea was rather routine, with not much more than 30 knots. We thought that the area was rather over-hyped until we saw the large sloop moored next to us when we arrived, which had been dismasted two weeks ago coming here from Australia and heard the story of another sloop that had been rolled over three times after it had set out for Tasmania, and returned rather chastened.

Nelson looks lovely and we look forward to discovering it. We will have more news soon.

All is well.

Location: 40° 20S, 171° 26E
Sunday 12:00, 05.06.2007

The Schooner Maggie B was at 40° 20S, 171° 26E at noon on May 6th. We were under power, making turns for 6 knots, so as to arrive at Nelson at 0800, as arranged for with NZ Customs. The wind was 3-5 knots from the west and the skies clear. We have come 1131 NM from Hobart and have about 120 to go to Nelson.

We are drying out gear, enjoying the sun and having a lovely lunch in the cockpit. We need to eat up all our fresh provisions as NZ Quarantine will seize everything.

Right after lunch we had the huge pleasure to see our first Snowy Albatross — an adult with a wingspan of at least two meters!

We then heard the NZ weather report, which changed everything. It is hard to listen to weather reports in a new area because one generally doesn’t know the demarcations: “From Cape Seggatiania to Port Whammationial, the wind will be….” But we did hear clearly that “Cook” will have a gale to 45 knots tonight. While technically we are entering Tasman Bay when we round Cape Farewell (and pass Farewell Spit, where we will spit), Cook Passage is just around the corner. At 1500, when I’m writing this, the barometer has fallen three millibar’s since noon, though just from 1018 to 1015. We don’t need any more clues. The engine is now to full cruising speed, and if we arrive Nelson early for Customs, we’ll just sort it out.

Tasman Bay, with Nelson at the bottom faces North. Not a nice place to be in a Northerly gale, but Nelson harbor should be the best harbor of refuge around as the entrance is north/south, closing to 200 meters, then with a dogleg to the West, where one is immediately protected by “Boulder Bank” with lots of room behind it to anchor, if no suitable quays are available. Should be “interesting.” ETA at Nelson is 0400 at this speed.

All is well.

Location: 40° 47S, 167° 13E
Saturday 12:00, 05.05.2007

The Schooner Maggie B was at 40° 47S, 167° 13Eat noon on May 5th. We have come 933 NM from Hobart and have 256 NM to go to Nelson. The first front has passed and we have hoisted the fore and shook out the furl on the main and are under all plain sail. The wind is 300 degrees magnetic at 15 knots — right on our port beam. We are making 8.5 knots in a somewhat sloppy sea with a thin overcast and occasional mist and drizzle passing over us. We “only” did 196 NM in the last 24 hours.

Port or starboard tack would seem not to make much difference, but most of us prefer port tack because our bunks are on starboard, and port tack means we can nicely snuggle into the “V” between the bunk and the hull side. On port, however, Hannah has to hang on against her lee strap. “Greater good for the greater number….”

New Zealand requires at least 48 hour warning of arrival (Australia was 96 hours!). We are in contact with Nelson Customs and have filled out their Arrival form. But at this speed, we would arrive at about 10 PM Sunday night, which is not a great time to come into a tight, unfamiliar port. Nor is it a desirable time to get Customs officers out of their bed for an inspection. We are therefore asking the Maggie B to do something that she isn’t good at — slow down. We expect the wind to fall off tonight, so we haven’t taken sails in or streamed drogues, but we may have to take a wander around Tasman Bay to allow for a more civilized arrival at 0800 Monday morning.

The Yanmar engine has been using somewhat more oil than expected and, on inspection, we found that the t-joint installed in Mauritius, to allow for an additional oil sensor, had cracked subtly. Fortunately, we had a plug to seal off the whole fitting, and we will fix it in Nelson or Auckland.

One friend wrote to say: “Your logs read as if this is some of your most enjoyable sailing yet - is that the case?” The quick answer is: “Not really.” We have been having some “interesting” weather — major cold fronts with 30 knots of wind and a chance of gusts to 45, 12 hours of hard rain, and seas that were often short and choppy. The long answer, however, is “yes.” The boat is in very good shape; I have a top crew of friends that goes eagerly and cheerfully to their duties; we have great support from shore, both moral support from friends and family, as well as weather support from professionals — we are doing something hard that we are good at. That makes even a dank midnight watch with occasional trickles of rain water or sea water down the neck or up the sleeve, a pleasure.

The ship’s time is now +12 from UTC, but on the other side of the Date Line. We’re getting closer to home!

All is well.

What We Are Reading en route to NZ

Frank - Cochrane: Britannia’s Sea Wolf by Donald Thomas

Owen - The Fatal Shore by Robert Hughes

Theresa - The Odessey Homer, the Fagles translation

Hannah - The Last Grain Race by Eric Newby

Bori - For Esme with Love and Squalor by J.D. Salinger

Location: 41° 12S, 163° 24E
Friday 12:00, 05.04.2007

At noon on May 4th, the Schooner Maggie B was at 41° 12S, 163° 24E. We were making nine knots on the rhumb line for Cape Farewell. We have come 785 NM from Hobart and have 431 to go to Nelson. We have come 214 NM in the last 24 hours, and 611 in the last three days.

The wind has been steady at 25-30 knots from 330-340 degrees, or 70 degrees off our port side. We took in the fore sail before lunch and now are under full jib and the main with one reef. The Maggie B loves these conditions. The waves have made up a bit to 3-5 meters, but though they are fairly short and sharp, they are on the beam, so she shrugs them off with aplomb. Every now and then, though, she throws up a fair heap of water off her hip into the cockpit, as if to remind the Watch that this is real stuff.

We are anticipating frontal passage sometime fairly soon. Bands of rain showers, 12-15 NM wide and 3-4 NM thick have been marching past behind us, but we haven’t been in one yet. We expect some more wind with the passage of the front, then it should back to the NW and West and lighten up a bit. We don’t think that the actual front will be too severe because the barometer has stayed fairly steady at 1010 mb the last 12 hours.

Shy Albatrosses (Thalassarche cayta) have joined the aerial circus following us.

One marvelous new sight is a little pocket rainbow that appears in our bow spray as we plunge along. When the sun is just right, it is quite bright though just a few feet long.

Our Furuno autopilot is doing a marvelous job. We are charging along at just about hull speed in somewhat confused seas and it keeps us on track to Cape Farewell with just an occasional one degree starboard or port “touch.” The autopilot is “adaptive,” which means it learns the performance of its vessel. It sure has figured us out. It is also a compliment to Nigel Irens and North Sails that we are perfectly balanced with zero helm, most of the time, even in these complex conditions and with the fore down and the main reefed.

Sunday night in Nelson, if the elements are willing.

All is well.

“Four Cloves” en route to NZ

We had a lovely lunch of garlic/ginger chicken breasts sautéed with broccoli and carrots accompanied by a garden salad with the Captain’s infamous “Four Cloves” balsamic vinegar dressing.

Location: 41° 39S, 158° 46E
Thursday 12:00, 05.03.2007

At noon on May 3, the Schooner Maggie B was at 41° 39S, 158° 46E. We have come 545 NM from Hobart and have 658 NM to go to Nelson. We did 204 NM in the last 24 hours. At noon we were under all plain sail, doing 8.3 knots in a 15-18 knot NW’erly breeze. Perfect sailing. The clouds have mostly cleared up and we are booming along.

The forecast is still for a fair bit more wind and the barometer is just beginning to fall. We had a lovely lunch of garlic/ginger chicken breasts sautéed with broccoli and carrots accompanied by a garden salad with the Captain’s infamous “Four Cloves” balsamic vinegar dressing. Then we reefed the main down to the first reef. We also tightened the lashings on the Reep, the anchor and miscellaneous deck boards. Dorade vents are sealed off. Perhaps a bit much for 18 knots of wind, but all easier to do in a nice afternoon than at night in 30 knots. “If you’re thinking about reefing, it’s already too late.”

Nelson in a bit over three days.

All is well.

Location: 42° 02S, 154° 17E
Wednesday 12:00, 05.02.2007

The Schooner Maggie B was at 42° 02 S, 154° 17E at noon on May 2nd. Ship’s time has been changed to +11 GMT. We are finally sailing with all plain sail, doing 7.8 knots for Cape Farewell, New Zealand in 13 knots of wind from the NNW. The swell is somewhat confused and the skies thinly overcast with a few bands of rain showers about. We have come 349 NM from Hobart and have 843 NM to Nelson, which is a little over four days.

Last night we had a huge halo around the almost-full moon. Being three fists-at-arms-length away, old salts would say we have some dirty weather coming three days away. Owen and I also saw a star(?) low in the south, flashing red and green. It could have been an airplane, but it was entirely stationary.

We have a large flock of Grey Headed Albatross (Thalassarche chrysostoma) following us. Their wingspan is up to two meters. One reference book says that those nesting on Macquarie Island are mellow enough that they have been known to preen the hair of researchers as they allow their leg bands to be read at their nests. Looking at the hair of the crew of the Maggie B, probably they are following us not for food scraps, but to help out with our coiffeur. More recently some Black Browed have joined the squadron. Owen is reading Robert Hughes’ excellent book on Australia called “The Fatal Shore.” In it he quoted Joseph Banks saying “The Tahitians made love…but [the Maori]… live entirely on fish, dogs and enemies.” Up pipes Theresa: “So why are we going to New Zealand?”

Two random thoughts: it is amazing to me that the USA hasn’t taken up one and two dollar coins like Australia and Canada. They make life so much easier. Australia has also given up the penny, which also makes great sense. Second thought: I feel very lucky that the Maggie B was built in Canada as most all our screws are Robertson, which means various sized squares in the head rather than the simple slot of most screws or the “X” of Phillips-head. It makes screws so much easier to insert and extract, it is amazing to me that their use is still mostly restricted to Canada.

We will probably take the main down one reef before nightfall if the wind continues to freshen. The prediction is for about twenty knots from the NW, which would give us a lovely beam reach for Nelson.

All is well.

Tips on handling customs duties and VAT/GST taxes

Customs duties and VAT/GST taxes can come to significant numbers and it can add up to real money. Many countries, including Australia have mechanisms for “Boats in Transit” to avoid or recoup those taxes, but just try to actually make it happen! Australian GST is 11%. In theory it is refundable when you leave, but the rules make it essentially impossible. First you have to sign into a “scheme” (yes, that’s what they call it) which, besides paperwork, requires you to pay $38 for each crew member. That $190 for us would mean that we would have to have spent more than $1727. But just on goods, not services. Goods and services mixed in a bill? Sorry, not deductible. Then if it is just goods, you must be able to prove it is being exported. Paint, painted on already? Sorry, can’t tell. Rope made up into halyards? Sorry. Did you know it also has to be exported within 30 days of purchase? Sorry. And you don’t get 100% of what you spent due to unspecified charges. I talked to three Customs officers and a “question line” at the Capitol, and got the impression that it had never actually happened.

Location: 42° 04S, 150° 46E
Tuesday 12:00, 05.01.2007

On the First of May, the Schooner Maggie B was at 42° 04S, 150° 46E. We were motor sailing at 7.2 knots northeast for a recommended turn point for weather, at 41deg30S/152E, where we will head for Cape Farewell at the northern tip of the southern island of New Zealand. We should hit the turn point at about midnight tonight. The wind has been essentially non-existent since we left Hobart, but there is a long Easterly swell reminding us that there is some weather out there.
We have traveled 158 NM since Hobart and Nelson, NZ is 1031 NM away. We should arrive Nelson on May 7th.

Things are quiet on board with everyone finding or remembering the pacing of a Blue Water Passage. Crew aboard is Bori Kiss, Hannah Joudrey, Theresa Chapman, Owen Baker and Frank Blair. Theresa has her short bio up on the web site.

We’re still learning. Customs duties and VAT/GST taxes can come to significant numbers and it can add up to real money. Many countries, including Australia have mechanisms for “Boats in Transit” to avoid or recoup those taxes, but just try to actually make it happen! Australian GST is 11%. In theory it is refundable when you leave, but the rules make it essentially impossible. First you have to sign into a “scheme” (yes, that’s what they call it) which, besides paperwork, requires you to pay $38 for each crew member. That $190 for us would mean that we would have to have spent more than $1727. But just on goods, not services. Goods and services mixed in a bill? Sorry, not deductible. Then if it is just goods, you must be able to prove it is being exported. Paint, painted on already? Sorry, can’t tell. Rope made up into halyards? Sorry. Did you know it also has to be exported within 30 days of purchase? Sorry. And you don’t get 100% of what you spent due to unspecified charges. I talked to three Customs officers and a “question line” at the Capitol, and got the impression that it had never actually happened.

The only possibility seems to not pay Customs or GST in the first place. One store (where we got our “Southern Hemisphere” compass) just accepted that it was going to be exported and didn’t charge GST. I tried that with other stores and they all said that they would never get away with it in a tax audit. Another way is to find an experienced ship supplier (ask Customs, they know the good ones). At least in Australia, we were able to get “ships stores” (read rum, whiskey and beer) for about 1/2 the price in a bottle shop. I had charts for the Pacific shipped in from the States and had to pay significant duties on it. I tried to get it back from Customs and they said that it was FedEx’s fault for how they brought it in. They said that FedEx focuses only on speed of delivery, even if it means they make no effort to get your goods in without duty. Customs suggested that an experienced Broker could have easily avoided duty on my charts, though it might have taken longer.

Supposedly New Zealand is sufficiently enlightened that when you arrive you can get a certificate that, if presented to a supplier, can enable you to avoid VAT/GST. We’ll see.

All is well.