Location 39° 09S, 108° 28W
Wednesday 10.31.2007

The Schooner Maggie B was at 39° 09S, 108° 28W at noon on October 31st. We are still blasting along at 8.9 knots with 20-25 knots of wind on our beam. We are right on the Great Circle Route to Puerto Montt. We made 217 NM in the last 24 hours. The skies are clearing and the waves are settling in a bit more regularly, though still with a SW swell against a Northerly wind-generated waves. We have come 3336 NM from Rangiroa and have 1595 to go to Puerto Montt.

It looks as if we will have two more days of this great breeze. Our high is steadying into place ahead of us and we are running into it -- our barometer is up to 1022 Mb. Another high looks to develop behind and below us, but we may slip through the gap between the two before it overlays us and stops our progress. We'll have some tactical decisions to make on November 2nd, at which time we'll have only a little more than 1000 NM to go.

We are now on GMT -8, the same as California (give or take DST). While we are sliding Waaaaay South, it is amazing to us that if we were in the US, we would be about crossing the Utah/Colorado border now. Puerto Montt is at about the same longitude as New York City. A usually successful "bar bet" is asking what South American city is directly south of Miami. The answer is: none -- they are all to the East. When we go around the Horn, we will be about as far East as Halifax.

Robert is earning a new name: Splash Gordon. He seems to have unerring ability to arrive on deck just as the biggest splash within hours zeros in. This morning he went out for his watch at 0900, having been informed by Kath that there had been no spray for an hour. On emerging in his foulie bottoms, to put on his top and harness on deck, he got the Three Bucket Special square on his head. Like the candidate for Dial soap in the commercials, nobody wants to stand near him on deck.

All is well.

What We Are Reading en route to Chile

Hannah - Love in the Time of Cholera by Gabriel Garcia Marquez

Robert - A Thousand Splendid Suns by Khaled Hosseini

Kath - A Short History of Nearly Everything by Bill Bryson

Frank - Color: A Natural History of the Palette by Victoria Finlay

Location 38° 06S, 112° 53W
Tuesday 10.30.2007

At noon on October 30th, the Schooner Maggie B was at 38° 06S, 112° 53W. We were snorting along at 8.3 knots with full jib, one reef in the main and the fore furled up. The wind has been pretty steady at 310-320 degrees at 20-25 knots with gusts to 32. There is a medium high overcast but no rain, only occasional spray on the boat.

We have come 3119 NM since Rangiroa and have 1812 to go to Puerto Montt. We did 209 NM in the last 24 hours. It looks as if we will keep this ride through November 2nd. We should be within 1000 miles by then.

Last night at midnight we took in the fore. What was special about it was that it wasn't anything special about it. The wind was steady at 25 knots with gusts to 32. The Maggie B was going hull speed and then some and though still pretty dry with the scuppers clear of the water, she felt over-pressed. All Hands were called at midnight, gear and harnesses went on quickly (over jammies), and we did a quick brief in the galley. Deck lights on, a dose of chocolate, and everyone went to their stations. One, two, three and down came the fore into the Lazy Jacks, to be tightly furled up and lashed down. The off watch were back in their bunks by 0030.

We spotted what looked like serious fraying along the leech of the fore, but today, on inspection, it appears to be only the sheath for the fore leech tension line, and not anything serious. We will be able to fly the sail when the wind abates and have it stitched up in Puerto Montt.

All is well.

Commanders Weather Corporation
Monday 14:20, 10.29.07

From: Commanders' Weather Corporation
Route: Papeete, Tahiti to Puerto Montt, Chile
Est position: 36° 02S 120° 05W at approx 2100utc Sunday, October 28, 2007
Prepared: 1420 utc Monday, October 29, 2007
Summary

Your weather this week will be dominated by a deepening high pressure currently centered just to your E, near 35S/111W

In conjunction with a complex area of low pressure to your SW that is expected to deepen this week 2) the high is expected to slide to the E over the next few days to be near 37S/96W by 00utc on Nov 1 at about 1034MB

The low to your SW is forecast to intensify as it slides SE to be near 55S/135W and about 950MB by 00utc on the 1st

Between these two weather features, your winds will build out of the N-NNW beginning today

They will continue to slowly back into the beginning of next week

Think the wind speeds will build to around 25-30kts, with higher gusts around 40kts, over the next few days e) then lighten by the end of the week, as you move closer to the center of the high which is expected to be near 35S/95W by 00utc on the 3rd

Longer range forecast shows your winds continuing to back out of the W and then SW on the 4th and 5th

As a cold front slides across you on a mainly rhumbline route toward Puerto Montt

Possible light WNW winds on the 4th should be replaced with winds backing out of the W to SW as you head toward the coast

Can expect gusty and squally conditions on the W to SW winds with 20-40kts and seas probably building to 13-18ft

Routing

Kept you on a general rhumbline toward Puerto Montt at about 200 nm/day

Might have to adjust your routing for the last 3 days, as the stronghigh catches up to you

Routed you around 170nm/day in lighter winds on Friday, but usually figured you for 200 nm/day

Wind forecasts
Wind directions are TRUE, wind speed in kts, and time is UTC
Mon Oct 29
00: 280-260/15-23 g30 nr 34S/178 10E
06: 280-260/14-22 g30
12: 270-250/12-20 g25
Weather: Variably to mostly cloudy, slight chc of a shower
Seas building to 6-8ft during the day, SW swell
Tue Oct 30
00: 350-330/15-23 g30 near 36 10S/118 50W
06: 350-330/18-25 g30
12: 350-330/18-26 g30
18: 340-320/ 20-28 g35
Weather: Variably to mostly cloudy, slight chc of a shower
Seas building to 7-10 ft, SW swell
Wed Oct 31
00: 340-320/ 23-30 g40 near 37S/115W
06: 340-320/ 20-26 g35
12: 340-320/ 20-25 g35
18: 330-310/ 18-25 g30
Weather: Variably to mostly cloudy, increased chc shower/squall
Seas 8-11ft SW swell
Thu Nov 1
00: 330-310/ 20-28 g35 near 37 40S/111W
12: 330-310/ 20-25 g35
Weather..Variably cloudy, scattered showers/squalls
Seas becoming 10-12ft SW swell
Fri Nov 2
00: 330-310/20-25 g35 near 38 30S/107W
12: 320-300/17-24 g30
Weather..Variably cloudy, scattered showers/squalls
Seas building to 11-14ft, SW swell
Sat, Nov 3
00: 320-300/15-23 g30 near 39 30S/102 30W
12: 300-280/20-25 g35
Weather..Variably cloudy, scattered showers/squalls
Seas 13-16 ft, mostly SW swell

Location 37° 00S, 116° 57W
Monday 10.29.2007

The Schooner Maggie B was at 37° 00S, 116° 57W at noon on October 29th. We were rushing along at 9.0 knots directly on the Great Circle route to Puerto Montt. The wind was NW at 17-19 knots, essentially right on our port beam. There is a medium level thin overcast, but the sun is still fairly warm through it.

We have come 2935 NM from Rangiroa and have 2016 NM to go to Puerto Montt.

It looks as if we will have a marvelous ride the next five days. We have a big high (1034 Mb) centered about 700 NM in front of us and a deep low (950 Mb) about 1100 NM South of us. We should keep a Northerly 15-30 knot breeze right on our beam for the next five days, which should move us half the remaining way to Chile. We reefed the main down one reef after lunch and will consider doing the same to the fore before dark.

When we get to 9-10 knots in the Maggie B, a faint hum develops. Technically it is probably some interface with the centerboard, but we all think that is is just the hum of happiness.

The Captain has to make tough decisions. That comes with the job. Last night there was a big one. When I came on watch at midnight, I was presented with the dilemma of choosing between a slice of Hannah's fruit pie or her cinnamon cake to go with my cup of Earl Grey tea. Showing the deep experience of a Blue Water Skipper, with a nod to Solomon, I took have a slice of each....

Jodi Farrar, Robert's wife, sent us a blessing that I wanted to share:
"........Sure and may there lie a sea before you,
the likes of which have never been sailed before,
inviting you to proceed without interruption, upheaval, or
problems in a steady flowing motion, without jolts or interruptions,
in honor of the greatness that is upon your vessel."

All is well.

Location 36° 02S, 120° 05W
Sunday 10.28.2007

The Schooner Maggie B was at 36° 02S, 120° 05W at noon on October 28th. We are back under all plain sail, slipping along at 5.0 knots in 8.0 knots of wind on our beam. We have a series of complex mid-level overcast clouds with occasional light rain. The barometer is just barely beginning to fall from a high of 1020 millibars. The waves are relatively flat with just a long period SW swell to give definition to the wide waters.

We have come 2751 NM from Rangiroa and have 2179 to go to Puerto Montt.

Today was "Clean the Boat" day and Robert showed off his Beginner's Luck by pulling "Head and Shower" out of the hat. We also started securing for a blow, putting on our extra baffles to help secure the ventilation system, installing the heavy windows on the aft side of the pilot house and tightening up all deck equipment's lashings, especially Reep's. We practiced setting "Kathy," our storm main staysail between the main and the fore masts.

We are beginning to see albatross and petrels. My favorite, the Pintado Petrel, showed up yesterday. We haven't been able to ID the albatrosses because as soon as they see Robert's camera with the 300 mm lens, they take off for Antarctica.

All is well.

Location 34° 15S, 125° 28W
Saturday 10.27.2007

The Schooner Maggie B's noon position on October 27th was 35° 11S 122° 49W. We were motorsailing, or mostly motoring, at 6.2 knots along the Great Circle line to Puerto Montt. The wind was 290 degrees at 8 knots, or pretty much dead astern. There is still a long swell from the SW and the sky is now overcast with mid-altitude clouds.

We have come 2609 NM from Rangiroa and have 2321 NM to go to Chile.

We are definitely getting into the Southern Ocean. The water temperature is now down to 62 F (17 C), where it was 82 F (27C) in Rangiroa. Finally we are seeing some birds — petrels and albatross.

Last night there was a big ring around the almost-full moon. It was "three fists" wide, meaning that the weather was three days away. It is strange that we are using pre-industrial weather forecasting ("fists away" and wind direction) with Seventeenth Century technology (the barometer) with satellite analysis, to gauge our weather and the prospects.

I had a "waking dream" yesterday that I was in a big kitchen or bar and had a huge pile of limes that I was squeezing in a sparkling juicer. (I don't remember seeing any rum or tequila -- too bad). When I woke up I took it as a direct signal from my body and went and make limeade for all hands. No scurvy on the Maggie B!

By the weather charts, it looks as if we have maybe one more day of motoring and then this front will catch up with us and we will have all the wind we should want, which will blow us most of the way to Chile. We are ready for it. We ran our first, little, tank dry this morning — meaning we have used 120 gallons and have 200 remaining, with an additional 10 in jerry cans. It appears we are getting about 5-6 NM per gallon, so we should have at least 1000 NM of steaming remaining, plus the emergency 50 NM. Should be fine.

All is well.

Location 34° 15S, 125° 28W
Friday 10.26.2007

The Schooner Maggie B was at 34° 15S 125° 28W at noon on October 26th. We were sailing at 6.7 knots with full main and fore and The Bird G2 gennaker up. The wind is from the NW at 11-14 knots. A long swell is making up from the SW and there is a high overcast filling in. We are headed about 100 degrees magnetic (125 True) along the Great Circle course for Puerto Montt.

We have come 2465 NM from Rangiroa and have 2463 to go to Puerto Montt.

We are just skirting the SW side of the building high, which will remain a factor for the next several days. The big low to the SW is too far away and South to affect us, but a front off of it should bring us a good breeze early next week. The full report from Commanders will soon be up on the web site, but here is an interesting quote:

"3) I would not oppose going down to 40s if you were game for NNW 25-40 kts in the Tue-Wed period a) but point out that details of the guidance 4-5 days out may be less than precise b) also, in this remote part of the ocean, cannot find detailed model output on pressure and wind field from US Navy or other models that we often use to sanity check the workhorse GFS model - i.e. no second opinion 4) suggest we take another look by Mon-Tue"

We will be down at 37-39 South by Tuesday and will certainly keep our eyes open and consult with Commanders again in a few days. Earlier I described catching a low or its attendant front is like the timing to catch a bus. Rather it is perhaps more like catching a ride on a freight train, as in getting your timing or positioning wrong can be serious.

Analyzing the halyard block problem...

We have had a very interesting analysis of our breaking throat halyard block problem from the Atelier of Nigel Irens. It is a bit over my head. I will post it on the web site as soon I get permission. The essence of the analysis is that the gaff INCREASES the load on the throat, not decreases it. Conventional thought is that the throat tightens the luff and carries part of the strain of the sail, with the gaff and peak halyards carrying a full share. The new analysis is that the very vertical gaff has a significant downward force vector that increases the load on the throat. Looking at it now, it seems obvious. The analysis also emphasizes that a single triple block is getting pulled at least three different ways at the same time, which would further reduce an otherwise "pure" breaking load.

About two weeks to go to Puerto Montt.

All is well.

Location 31° 00S, 127° 56W
Thursday 10.25.2007

The Schooner Maggie B was at 32° 48S 127° 56W at noon on October 25th. We are motorsailing at 6 knots towards our turn point at 35° S 125° W. The wind has stayed light from the NW at 8 knots, or about directly behind us. The weather is lovely and clear, though a big swell is beginning to make up from the SW, foretelling a serious low.

We have come 2309 NM from Rangiroa and have 2615 to go to Puerto Montt. We are rather out in the middle of things, with Pitcairn Island being 500 NM away to the north, Easter 1000 to the NE, and Papeete 1500 behind us to the NW. The ocean seems very empty. We haven't see a ship since Papeete, and only get faint "cheeps" on our See-Me Radar Detector. There have been no birds for the last several days and, alas, no fish have taken our lures.

Beside the full moon tonight, Sirius and the Big Dog, followed by the Ship Stern, fill our skies.

The long swell from the SW is an obvious clue and our GRIB weather reports promise us some wind in a day or so. Maybe a lot of wind. With the frontal passage, they are predicting at least 30 knots. With Commander's Weather's help, we will focus tomorrow just how to best catch a ride with this next system, wanting a bit of wind, but not too much. If we time it right, we might get a ride most of the way to Chile on this low.

For those of you eager for a plumbing update, the head is fixed and fully functional, though a slow leak persists. The new gasket hasn't helped. We have lots of sealants on board, but not the right on for this application. The toilet directions say IN BOLD PRINT: "Do not overtighten or you will crack the bowl!" A little leak beats a broken head. We will get sealant in Puerto Montt.

Movie Night tonight is Prairie Home Companion.

We have a series of podcasts of Garrison Keillor's "News From Lake Woebegon" on our iPods, which make great night watch listening. A few nights ago I was shocked that in his September 8th report on the funeral for Miss Lewis, Garrison butchered the Shakespeare Sonnet #116:

"Let me not to the marriage of true minds admit impediments." For the line "[Love] is the star to every wand'ring barque, whose worth's unknown although his height be taken,"

Garrison replaced "height" with "depth." While I understand that the depths of Pete Petersen's love for Miss Lewis are unknowable, what was he thinking? Miss Lewis did teach him English, after all.

Speaking for wandering barques, or at least wandering schooners, we take our celestial navigation very seriously. And this line seems to clearly indicate that the writer was very experienced with sailing. In it I can so clearly see the master of a barque, far from land with position unknown, spotting a star through the scudding clouds and taking its height with his octant, but not knowing its value until he gets other clues. Certainly the writer was comparing how stars help guide ships to safe harbor as love guides people. Garrison should know better. I sent a "concerned" email. Probably the only one he gets this week from the Southern Ocean.

All is well.

Location 31° 00S, 130° 15W
Wednesday, 10.24.2007

The Schooner Maggie B's noon position on October 24th was 31° 00S, 130° 15W. We were motorsailing at 1800 rpm towards our next decision point at 35S/125W. The wind, as expected is 8-10 knots from the NW, which is generally just not enough to keep us going above out arbitrary "motor" point of four knots. We have been able to sail only about 1/2 of the last 24 hours, though the sails have always helped somewhat. We expect to have a few days of light or no wind, by which time we will be at the decision point, where we will chose how far southerly our track to Puerto Montt should be, balancing favorable wind against the chance of getting too much of a good thing.

We have come 2151 NM from Rangiroa and have 2769 NM to go to Puerto Montt. Life is settling in well for the long leg, as it should after a week at sea. We are doing the usual sailor's make/mend work: new sheaths for knives, leather wallets for shore, patches for clothes. We wash our laundry, chase leaks in the head and go over the rigging. Hannah baked a "Lady Baltimore" cake, and Kath, Hannah and Robert went for a quick dip/drag when we were ghosting along. Tonight's entertainment is a "poetry slam" with all bringing a few favorites to read aloud.

In all the discussions about things that break or are poorly made, I want to recognize systems that do their duty day in and day out without a problem. Today's Star goes to our Spectra Watermaker, which has run almost with no problems for 532 hours over the last year and a half, making about 3200 gallons of fresh water to sustain us.

All is well.