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Ready to Round the Horn

The Schooner Maggie B is still at the Marina del Sur in Puerto Montt, Chile at 41° 29.38S, 72° 58.95W. We are mostly ready for the trip South to the Horn.

It has been a hard working week to fix things. We have re-varnished the cockpit table; renewed the protections on the mast where the boom jaws rub; rebuilt blocks; changed the engines' oil, fuel and oil filters; cleaned out both fuel tanks; rebuilt the toilet (again!); restocked food, water and fuel; and replaced the injectors on the Yanmar. We are "re-" tired.

We have two fuel tanks, a smaller one at 120 gallons and a bigger one at 200 gallons. I, probably mistakenly, mostly used the small one and I suspect that the 200 gallon one built up water, biological fouling and sediment from non-use. Our engine problems coming in were from the bigger tank getting stirred up, bringing sediment and water into the engine in amounts that overwhelmed the two filters. We purchased the last four appropriate Yanmar injectors in Chile. The new injectors, together with new filters and burnished fuel and clean tanks, seem to have solved our problems.

We have also purchased six more jerry cans, to give us a little extra margin and also make it easier to resupply in the towns to the south, where you have to fill up at a service station and tote the fuel to the boat.

Sadly, we are going to leave ashore Strika, our South African surf kayak. In the last storm, the jib sheet got tangled around the very tip of the bow. When the sail filled, the sheet bent the fore 1/3 of the boat up almost 90 degrees, cracking the fiberglass all around. She is repairable with time, skill and plenty of space. Not available on the Maggie B. She should make a fine project for someone in Puerto Montt.

The crew for the trip south is Hannah Joudrey, Alden Blair, Freddie Kellogg Curtis Weinrich and Frank Blair. Full bios and photos will be up on the web soon. Hannah has been with us since Cape Town and is Bosun. She should whip the new recruits into knowing their ropes soon! Alden is my 25 year old son, back fresh from Africa, Freddie is an experienced sailor who I have known for fifty years and Curtis is the fit-it man from my brother-in-law's farm and a Alaska commercial fisherman. We will probably start off with two watches of two, watch on and watch off. I'll take myself out of the rotation and use my time getting the new guys up to steam and doing the relatively complex navigation.

The Chilean Navy, the Armada, have issued our Zarpa. The Zarpa is a formal itinerary with specific places and times that we are generally expected to conform to all the way to Puerto Williams. You are expected to check in twice a day as to your position, direction, speed and ETA next point. In practice is supposedly isn't that big a deal, at least in the north. In the South, closer to "differences" with the Argentineans and more extreme climate, the Armada keeps you closely monitored. One must also check in with every "reporting" lighthouse (the major ones) and any Armada boat one passes. Reports used to be over SSB, which was apparently very difficult, now one can do them by email. Progress?

Chile has been fascinating. We have had some time to explore Puerto Varas to the north (a beautiful lakeside town) and Chiloe Island to the south. Economically things seem pretty good, streets clean, people well dressed and active shoppers. People work hard, six days a week not being unusual. Our repaired sail was finished and returned today (Sunday). The Armada issued the Zarpa at 1700 on Saturday. But Puerto Montt is a hard-working fishing port, and not necessarily a fun place. Perhaps it is more lively in the summer season. Everybody has been kind and helpful, though there ae not as many English speakers as I would have expected.

All is well.

Location 41° 29.38S, 72° 58.95W
Saturday 11.10.2007

The Schooner Maggie B is safely tied up at Marina del Sur, Puerto Montt, Chile at 41° 29.38S, 72° 58.95W. We made landfall last night at about 0100, sighting the Faro Corona through the mist and squalls. We didn't have enough power to make it past the light into the quiet of Puerto Ingles to anchor, so we ran back out to sea for two hours, and hit the flood perfectly a bit after dawn. We had up to five knots to help us up the channel to dock at Puerto Montt at 1630. Every lighthouse, which are run by the Armada, quizzed us as we came in. Fortunately their English was good as our Spanish is lacking.

We covered a total of 5036 NM from Rangiroa, or 4252 from Papeete. From Papeete to Puerto Montt took us 25 days, or an average of 170 NM per day.

One of the amazing experiences of arriving here is the bird life. We went from Wandering Albatross to Pelicans in five miles. We had the good fortune to set a new record for clearing Immigration and the Armada. We arrived at 1630 and were cleared by 1900. Another boat took four days. Apparently we still have Health and Customs, but we need to call on them at their offices on Monday, so that hardly counts.

More soon.

All is well.

Location 41° 30S 76° 30W
Friday 11.09.2007

The Schooner Maggie B was at 41° 30S, 76° 30W at noon on November 9th. We are still taking a bit of a beating. The wind is from the South at 25-30, which puts us on a broad reach, but the Southerly waves and swell make up for a short sea that is putting a lot of water on board, and giving the boat an occasional abrupt motion. We still have the main up with one reef and the jib rolled up to a bit less than 50%.

We have 117 NM to go to the mouth of the Channel into Puerto Montt. We seem to be right on time to arrive at about daybreak tomorrow. If we need to wait for the start of the flood, there is a protected bay where we can hang out.

We have 15-20 Pintado Petrels doing their aerial ballet in our wake. Hannah saw them doing a "walking on water" technique to attract food. It is behavior that I only associate with Stormy Petrels.

As with most boats that get themselves in a churn, our fuel tanks produced a big load of water and junk for the engine fuel filters. Fortunately the filters are instrumented and warned of the junk, which was removed before any trouble. What a great way to start the day -- getting coated in diesel fuel before breakfast!

One more day! It seems impossible.

All is well.

Location 41° 30S 79° 10W
Thursday 11.08.2007

At noon on November 8th, the Schooner Maggie B was at 41° 30S 79° 10W. We are thrashing along more or less close hauled in 25-30 knots of wind from the Southeast. A nice Roaring Forties Spring Event. Occasional sleet in the rain showers. Waves making up into a nice chop, but not too serious yet. Supposed to blow through pretty fast, which would be nice. We are under one reef in the main and the jib rolled up about half way. She is handling well, but we'll take the main in to the second reef if things don't abate some by sunset.

We have come 4668 NM from Rangiroa and have 281 NM to go to the channel entrance to Puerto Montt.

We are about on schedule to arrive at the mouth of the channel at sunrise Saturday, which is two hours before low water or one hour before the flood starts. If we get there really early, we will anchor nearby at Puerto Ingles, if we get there as late as Noon, we would catch the end of the flood. We should be in Marina del Sur by noon on Saturday.

The storm seems to bring out the Pintado petrels. There is at least a dozen working close in our wake and they fly within arms length of the stern. Big albatross are around also, and a 5-6 foot juvenile Wandering came almost close enough to touch the boat with his/her wing.

Hannah made a delicious soup/stew for lunch that was gulped down in coffee mugs — no soup plates today! Baked potatoes are cooking in the over for later warm-up.

All is well.

Location 40° 58S 82° 58W
Wednesday 11.07.2007

At noon on November 7th, the Schooner Maggie B was at 40° 58S 82° 58W. We are still motorsailing with about ten knots of wind directly behind us. We have 428 NM to go to Canal Chacao and have come 4513 NM from Rangiroa. The sky is partly cloudy but visibility is good. It is nice on deck in the sun, but the cabin is chill with the hatches open to air everything out. We are seeing lots of birds again — albatross and petrels — but we are still skunked on fish.

We are expecting a wind shift to a nice fresh Southerly.

Probably more wind than we need now because our target speed is 6.5 knots to get us to the mouth of the channel at about daybreak on Saturday, a hour or two before tide change.

Looking at charts, one way to grasp our position is that we are exactly on the longitude of Columbus, Ohio. The 4513 NM that we have come from Rangiroa is just about the distance from where we are to Atlanta, Georgia, or by plane from San Francisco to London.

Work on board is now all about landfall.

Checking brightness of riding lights (we haven't seen a boat, even on radar, since Tahiti), cleaning, printing out crew lists, cleaning, reorganizing stores, cleaning, preparing Spanish standard phrases, cleaning, studying charts. We are trying not to go crazy this last step.

All is well.

Lewmar again…

This morning brought a new surprise. On his watch, Robert collected about a dozen inch long pea green round tubes, and asked me what they might be. My first thought was some strange sort of chewing gum pieces. On inspection they proved to be the inner rollers of one of our Lewmar main sheet blocks, which was spitting them out. We rigged a replacement block and were able to replace all the rollers in the original. Situation solved? Nope. Two other similar Lewmar blocks proved to have far less than their full compliment of rollers. Hopefully Lewmar will sell us some replacements and we can get them to Chile with our crew change at Puerto Montt. #@$%!!& Lewmar.

You can read the rest of this post here...

Location 40° 41S 86° 42W
Tuesday11.06.2007

The Schooner Maggie B's noon position on November 6th was 40° 41S 86° 42W. We are motorsailing downwind towards Puerto Montt at 6.5 knots. The wind is from the West at 10-12 knots. The Maggie B doesn't do well going directly downwind, and, after about 4000 miles, we are more in "delivery mode" for the last little bit, rather than extracting every last knot out of whatever wind we have.

We have come 4359 NM from Rangiroa and have 597 NM to go to Canal Chacao, the channel entrance to Puerto Montt.

We are focusing on arriving at Canal Chacao at the start of the flood, which is one hour before low tide. Low tide on November 10th is at 0830 local (GMT -3), so we are shooting to be there at 0630 local -- better early than late. The math is Fourth or Fifth Grade, but still so often done wrong: at noon today we had 597 NM to go. Ship's noon now is GMT 1800 (we are now -6). We want to arrive at 1130 GMT in @3 1/2 days, or 90.5 hours. 597 divide by 90.5 equals 6.6 knots average speed. Could we arrive by the end of the Friday flood? It starts at 0940 GMT, it would end at @1530 GMT or 69.5 hours equals 8.6 knots. Hmmm. Could do it, but not with 10 knots of wind on our stern and tight on diesel (we have fuel for 6 knots for 600 NM, but not 8.5 knots - which would require approximately twice the fuel flow for the 40% more speed). So Saturday morning it is.

It was lovely at noontime today. We had lunch at the table in the cockpit. It is so strange to go from snow flurries two nights ago to lunch on deck.

No one on board speaks Spanish, but we are all trying to learn. The Armada, the Chilean Navy keeps tight track on shipping. One must report to each lighthouse or Naval Station one passes. But what to say? Probably not buenas dias or Mas cervezas, por favor, the Spanish we are learning. So catchy phrases like "A que hora es el corriente de creciente nel canal Chacao?" are the order of the day ("When does the flood start in the Chacao Channel?"). But will we understand the answer? We'll know Saturday. I wish my daughter Alexandra were on board with her fluent Spanish!

I am pleased to report that we seem to have shopped successfully for this leg. It appears that we will have sufficient supplies of good coffee, garlic and chocolate.

All is well.

Location 41° 21S 89° 45W
Monday 11.05.2007

The Schooner Maggie B was at 41° 21S 89° 45W at noon on November 5th. We are making good time, 8.1 knots more or less directly for Puerto Montt. The wind is from the NW at 13-16. It is overcast with fog. Visibility is up and down from 100 meters to 1/2 mile.

We have come 4207 NM from Rangiroa and have 727 to go to Puerto Montt.

This has been a fairly mixed period, with the wind going up and down in strength and all around in direction. I wish that I could say that we are following a clever strategy with carefully defined tactics for dealing with this little high sliding out (the barometer is falling) and the strength of the low coming to bear, but we aren't. We are just taking the wind and waves as they come and doing our best to keep the boat going as much towards Puerto Montt as we can. In the last three weeks we have been almost completely on the port tack with the sheets almost nailed down. In the last day have jibed three times and even now Hannah (The Watch) is eager to go back to starboard. It "should" steady in from the south, but the wind hasn't gotten the message as yet.

All is well.

Location 41° 05S, 093° 05W
Sunday 11.04.2007

The Schooner Maggie B was at 41° 05S, 093° 05W at noon on November 4th. We are motorsailing on the Great Circle route to Puerto Montt at 7.8 knots. The wind has backed around to the south at 7-9 knots. We are on the starboard tack for the first time in three weeks!

We have come 4054 NM from Rangiroa and have 882 NM to go to Puerto Montt (or, to be more exact, to landfall at the mouth of Canal Chacao, the entrance to Gulfo de Ancud, or 30 NM more to go to Puerto Montt). Arrival at Puerto Montt on November 9th seems doable, subject to wind, waves and weather. Canal Chacao is about ten miles long and has current speeds of up to 10 knots, with breaking 5-8 meter waves if there is wind against tide. We will be very attentive.

There is essentially no wind. Fog and a low overcast has come in with a moderate drizzle. Cold. The water temperature is down to 54 deg F (12 deg C). The watch is largely kept in the "Winter Porch," fueled by cups of tea, coffee and cocoa with Hannah's molasses cookies.

This morning brought a new surprise. On his watch, Robert collected about a dozen inch long pea green round tubes, and asked me what they might be. My first thought was some strange sort of chewing gum pieces. On inspection they proved to be the inner rollers of one of our Lewmar main sheet blocks, which was spitting them out. We rigged a replacement block and were able to replace all the rollers in the original. Situation solved? Nope. Two other similar Lewmar blocks proved to have far less than their full compliment of rollers. Hopefully Lewmar will sell us some replacements and we can get them to Chile with our crew change at Puerto Montt. #@$%!!& Lewmar.

All is well.