Welcome to Curtis’ blog!

Chemist by schooling, builder by training, stubborn and somewhat irreverent by birth, I’ve been a forklift operator, concrete flatworker, printing factory grunt, lawn god (actual job description), DOE researcher, strawbale house builder, farmer, aspiring writer, commercial fisherman, and busboy.

Enjoy the posts!

Today we clean the boat, avoid sunburns, and eat lots of fresh veggies.

Buenos Aires materialized out of the mist at 10 pm last night under a beautiful crescent moon.

For a hundred miles preceding, the Rio de la Plata, which separates Argentina from Uruguay, had stained the sea brown with continental sediment. I can only assume this is from heavy spring rains inland, so that it felt like sailing on the Missouri River.

Thick water or thin mud, it’s hard to say.

It was incredible to be out of sight of land and yet only be in 20 feet of water. The charts were full of small X’s signifying shipwrecks — some we saw still had their masts 20 or 30 feet out of the water. After some trepidation we navigated our way through the maze of shipping lanes, dodging cargo freighters and super tankers in the dark into the inner port, where we were met by our liaison from the Puerto Madero Yacht Club where the Maggie B will be tied up for the next month (and will serve as my floating home) and were led through a narrow canal into the thumping heart of the city on Saturday night.

On our way in we were passed by two party boats full of dancers, the air filed with drunken Spanish and American rock n’ roll as the lights flashed red and green inside. Though exhausted, I was infected with the thin energy of arriving in a foreign exotic city late at night with over 3000 miles of ocean behind me.

Across the canal there is a strip of old brick warehouses fronting the water that have been transformed into trendy little restaurants and clubs, and that is where we were pointed by the captain of the yacht club, who said that even at 1 am, Buenos Aires would still be offering food and drink. Though Argentina is world famous for its steak, we found our way into a sushi bar where the exhaustion finally eeked out of us onto the white leather couches, replaced with some delicious sushi and vino blanco and topped off with a double chocolate ice cream cone.

Spirited back across the canal by our private watertaxi (seriously, the Yacht Club takes us too and fro at our whim in their handy little dinghy) we promptly collapsed into bed to the promise of a solid night’s sleep for the first time in a week. Dancing will have to wait until I exchange my rubbery sea legs for more solid earthbound ones.

Today we clean the boat, avoid sunburns, and eat lots of fresh veggies.

Location 34° 36S, 58° 22W
Tuesday 12.18.2007

The Schooner Maggie B remains safely tied up the the Puerto Madero Yacht Club at 34° 36S, 058° 22W. The YCPM isn’t really a yacht club, it is a floating function room (weddings, corporate meetings, etc.) with a small marina. The facilities are fine and the administration is eager and helpful, but there is no “Members Bar” where you can go and find fellow seafarers. I suspect that the YC Argentino is the place to be for that.

But in many ways Buenos Aires isn’t really a seafaring town. Yes, it is on a historic estuary, but there is about 100 NM of dirty brown 20 foot deep water before you get anything really like the open ocean. One clear sign is that even the biggest boat here in the marina has only perhaps a 30 pound Danforth anchor. Clearly they never go anywhere.

Buenos Aires is very cosmopolitan, very European. No indian faces anywhere, even in the tough parts of town. Yes, some gypsies from time to time, either ten year olds playing the accordion or a 12 year old with a baby in arms, but all the faces are Spanish, English or Italian.

This Puerto Madero area is the old, old dock yards. Built about 1890 but superseded by more modern cargo handling systems in 1930. It was left relatively abandoned from 1930 (a bad year) to ten years ago when the City and Federal governments got together and developed what is now the hottest area in BA. Our walkway to the boat isn’t illuminated by flood lights or the half full moon, it is the AON, ABN-AMRO and NORTEL signs. The restaurants are great and varied, but it is a bit unsettling to be only a week away from Cape Horn and have a TGIFridays, Bice and Hooters nearby. But, with help, we have found the Argentinean ones. There is really only one acceptable thing to order in restaurants, though, carne. I was in an Italian restaurant and ordered a Caprese salad, and a seafood risotto, with a nice bottle of Sauvignon blanc and the waiter and then the Captain, tried to talk me into a steak and a bottle of Malbec. What was I thinking?? Maybe two days of steak was all I could handle?

It is interesting to compare Chile and Argentina. Not fair, as Buenos Aires is the Washington and NY City of Argentina, where Puerto Montt is the ….. Newark/Jacksonville of Chile. But you get a sense. In Chile you saw signs of permanence and stability. It clearly was going to work out and get better gradually. In Argentina, it seems more fragile. Maybe it will work, maybe there will be the next crisis — tomorrow, next week or next year, but coming, for sure. Argentina is a “make hay while the sun shines,” Chile seems more…Lutheran.

NorthSails, Argentina is going to check out all our patches tomorrow and we need a diesel mechanic to slove Onan generator problems, but generally we are in good shape.

Hannah, Alden and Frank leave tomorrow for their homes for the holidays, Freddy left today. Curtis is going to stay with the boat and roam Argentina a bit. There probably won’t be a regular update until January 15th, when the crew for the next leg convenes. The next big challenge is where we should have the Maggie B for Carnival.

All is well.

Location 34° 36S, 58° 22W
Sunday 12.16.2007

The Schooner Maggie B docked safely in the Puerto Madero Yacht Club in the heart of Buenos Aires at midnight, December 15th. Our position is 34° 36S, 058° 22W. The arrival was very difficult. We are right in the heart of waterfront Buenos Aires. Now it is 1 AM and there are about ten restaurants within sight that are still serving. Perhaps we will find a steak and a glass (or two) of nice Argentinean wine. More stories tomorrow. We have come 1625 NM from Puerto Williams. It is a warm, dry spring night.

All is well.

Location 35° 12S, 56° 59W
Saturday 12.15.2007

At noon on December 15th, The Schooner Maggie B was at 35°12S, 56°59W. We are at the corner of Canal Punte Indio and Canal Intermedio, in the Rio Plata estuary, about 75 NM from Buenos Aires. The wind is from due south at 15 knots, and we are sailing with one reef in the main and our G2 Gennaker, “The Bird” up.

We have come 1540 NM from Puerto Williams.

The bay or estuary here has us all astounded. We have been sailing for a day, mostly outside of sight of land, in water between 20 and 50 feet. This is after being in the Chilean canals, where you can be in 500 feet of water 200 feet from land. There is a main ship channel that is dredged for the big boats all the way to….27 feet. The chart shows dozens and dozens of ship wrecks, most all with the name of the sunk ship. We go by the Astarso, Carumbe, Roco, Pingo, Calipso, Hierro Belgiano, Rio Santiago, Barcozo, and many, many more.

We are running later than I was hoping. We may not get into Buenos Aires until 11 PM or midnight. We are late for two reasons. One is I underestimated the current of the Rio Plata. Right now we have full flood with us, and the tide about balances the outgoing dark brown river current. When the tide was ebbing, we had about a knot and a half against us.

The more serious reason for being late is that we are now down to our fuel reserves, the 10 gallons in jerry cans. We are saving that until we get close, perhaps the last 30 NM (10 gallons = 40 liters = 60 NM at 6 knots). While we are sailing well, and we are sailors, after all, I had counted on motor sailing to hit the timing. I made the mistake of forgetting to write down the engine time when we refueled in Puerto Williams. I underestimated the distance we would end up covering from Puerto Williams, which will end up being 1600 NM. Then we used the engine a lot coming up the coast, more than we needed to, to help keep warm and to speed our arrival in BA. Finally, I didn’t take into account the use of diesel by the heater, which was low flow, but used 24 hours/day for a week. All in all, we ran the main tanks dry 125 NM from our destination. Thanks goodness we are a sailboat. Why don’t you have fuel gauges, you ask? We do, “Acu-gage Ultra-8″ - it says both fuel tanks are full.
I’m sure that my loving, faithful crew (especially Alden) will never, ever, let me forget this.

We are hoping that Buenos Aires is a “late” town.

All is well (really!).

Location 37° 45S, 56° 31W
Friday 12.14.2007

At noon on December 14th, the Schooner Maggie B was at 37° 45S, 56° 31W. We were under full sail, making 8.9 knots in a nice 20 knot southerly breeze. Buenos Aires is 187 NM away and we have come 1394 NM from Puerto Williams. The sky is a high overcast, but no rain as yet. We should arrive in Buenos Aires tomorrow afternoon. The computer says we will be at the Antipuerto Norte (northerly outer harbor) at 1423 on Saturday. We’ll see.

Last night when we were 25 NM off shore, we had thousands of dragonflies come aboard, perching everywhere. And lots of other bugs. Must have been a mating dance as all are gone or dead today. A flycatcher has been hanging out on our shrouds, probably having heard about our abundance.

We are now on a broad reach running up the Rio Plata estuary. Our entrance into this historic body of water was immeasurably improved by the accompaniment of a pod of False Killer Whales (Pseudorca crassidens). They average about 18 feet long and were a bit of a shock after much smaller dolphin. They played in our bow wave, wake and right alongside. Only the appearance of cameras on deck made them leave us….

As sailors making landfall after a long, successful voyage, we are getting ready in traditional ways: braiding hair - Curtis; shaving (?) - Alden; reading the history of the place - Freddie; studying the charts of the complicated channel - the Captain; and airing out the Little Black Dress - the Bosun.

All is well.

Location 39° 55S, 59° 25W
Thursday 12.13.2007

At noon on December 13th, the Schooner Maggie B was at 39° 55S, 59° 25W. We were motoring at 6 knots NE into a 15 knot NE’erly. A clear day, but with short chop that slows us down. We are all in “Delivery Boat” mode rather than “Perfect the trim of the jib to squeeze the last 1/100 of a knot out of the sails” mode.”

“We have come 1184 from Puerto Williams, we have 321 NM to go to Buenos Aires, as the crow flies, but we still have to get around the headland that makes the south shore of the Rio Plata estuary. We are as sheltered as we can reasonably be from the Northerly, but there aren’t a lot of tactics you can do when your course is 035 and the wind is from 035. Once past Mar del Playa we will gradually turn north, then northwest up the historic estuary.

We are waiting for the next system to go through, which won’t be until about dawn tomorrow. It will bring in the SW’erly, which will power us along. As of this writing (2000), our target speed to make Buenos Aires by 6 PM on Saturday is 7.6 knots. Certainly that is something the Maggie B can do. But currently with full cruising RPM, we are making 5.7 knots into the wind and waves.

During the afternoon, we were about 100 NM off the coastline. To my annoyance, a serious number of house flies somehow made it out to the boat, presumably helped by the wind. Then a very special visitor arrived! A lovely yellow/green parakeet with blue cheek patches flew into the Crew Mess, reported for duty and promptly fell asleep, perched on the Watch schedule. After a nap, it indulged in a snack (sesame seeds), some water, sat on Hannah and Curtis’s fingers, checked out its assigned bunk (a straw basket with paper towel strips for bedding), and promptly deserted for a more stabile perch. It must be mating season. We hope it brings back a mate.

More news tomorrow on our race to make Buenos Aires Saturday Night!

All is well.

Location 42° 35S, 61° 01W
Wednesday 12.12.2007

At noon on December 12th, the Schooner Maggie B was at 42° 35S, 61° 01W. We were motorsailing at seven knots more or less due north, still making for the coast of Argentina between Bahia Blanca and Mar del Playa. The weather is clear and sunny and the sea is mostly calm, at least calm for Blue Water. We are now in the lee of the Argentinean coast, which is only 150 NM away to our West, so rollers don’t have a chance to make up.

We have come 996 NM from Puerto Williams and have 495 to go to Buenos Aires.

We are expecting a fresh northerly to start about midnight tonight and our course should both give us some protection from the build up of the seas as well as having “banked” a lot of Westing that we can give up as we run along the coast towards Mar del Playa (38S/57deg30W). If we time it right, about when we get to Mar del Playa (the “corner”), at dawn on the 14th, the wind will shift to a strong SW’erly which will blow us up the Plata to Buenos Aires. We’ll see.

The waters here must be very rich. Where before we would generally see only a few albatross, here there hundreds. The fishing boats are out (draggers) and we have seen two pods of Southern Right Whales. We had a line out to catch fish for dinner, but had to pull it in as it was attracting albatross.

All is well.

Location 45° 22S, 62° 20W
Tuesday 12.11.2007

The Schooner Maggie B was at 45° 22S, 62° 20W at noon on December 11th. We were making nine knots headed about due north, with one reef in the main, full fore and jib. After a night of a 20 knot NW’erly, we are basking (literally) in a 20 knot sunny Westerly.

We have come 813 NM from Puerto Williams and have 672 NM to go to Buenos Aires. We are angling in to close the Argentinean coast where it runs East and West between Bahia Blanca and Mar del Playa because we are expecting a stiff North to NW’erly on the 13th, so we will have some protection and some “westing” to give up.

Our beloved Jorge, the Furuno autopilot that has guided us most all the way for the last 28,000 NM, has given up the ghost and gone senile, or at least it is now refusing to talk to the rudder motor. Furuno advises it most probably a blown circuit board in their control unit and will have us a new one directly, though obviously not before we make Buenos Aires. So we have to hand steer, not a hardship with five skilled helmsmen (helmspersons) on board. We are doing two hour shifts during the day and one hour at night. Last night Freddie was able to find the “sweet spot” when we were close hauled and the Maggie B sailed herself. I didn’t have to touch the wheel for all of my two hour shift, as she balanced between jib and main. The main was left just a little free and the jib a little tight: if she pointed up, pressure would come off the main, and the jib would press down; if she went off, the force of the main would increase and push the stern back up. With the helm set just right, she would slowly hunt up and down five degrees, always finding her way back.

The weather is startlingly different from just a few days ago. Today was the first time I’ve stood a watch without full foul weather gear in a month. We are searching to find our suntan lotion. Wool hats are exchanged for ball caps. But the Wandering Albatrosses are still with us as are the fun show of Peales Dolphins.

We still anticipate making Buenos Aires sometime on Saturday, 15 December, depending on how we get treated by this next system.

All is well.

Location 48° 38S, 63° 18W
Monday 12.10.2007

The Schooner Maggie B was at 48° 38S, 63° 18W at noon on December 10th. We are headed about due North true, reaching up along 63 degrees West Longitude. Right now we are making 10.5 knots, including a knot of favorable current (the Falklands current). In the last 24 hours we did 204 NM. The wind is a nice 25 knot SW’er and the seas are only 2-3 meters. The Maggie B loves this kind of weather - we are often going hull speed (10.2 knots) and below decks it is comfortable for me typing at the keyboard, Curtis watching a movie on the other computer and Alden and Hannah napping. We have the main up with one reef, full fore and full jib. The centerboard gives off a happy hum when we are going more than nine knots, and we are hearing it almost constantly.

We have come 612 NM from Puerto Williams and we have 872 to go to Buenos Aires. A betting pool has formed on our arrival time in Buenos Aires. Current guessing is between noon on the 14th and end-of-day on the 15th. The unpredictable part is there is a small northerly promised around the 13th, which may slow us. We are holding a bit more towards the Coast of Argentina than direct to give the seas less room to develop and to “bank” some westing that we could give up if faced with the NW’erly.

Our port diesel fuel tank has been giving us fits, acting like it is out of fuel when plenty is left. We had blown out the fuel vent, but discovered yesterday that the one-way valve that was just supposed to stop water coming in, also was stopping air from coming in. After an hour or so of running, a sufficient vacuum developed to reduce the fuel flow. Always new riddles!

All is well.

Commanders’ Weather Corporation
Sunday, 1845utc, 12.09.2007

From: Commanders’ Weather Corporation
Route:54° 47S, 64° 24W to Buenos Aires
Est position: 53° 32S, 73° 30W
0200utc Sunday, December 9, 2007
Prepared: 1845 utc Friday, December 7, 2007

Summary

Routing

Wind forecasts
Wind directions are TRUE, wind speed in kts, and time is UTC
Offshore seas WSW 15-20 feet in exposed areas, largely swell

Sat Dec 8
12: 260-280/15-25 depart
18: 280-300/20-30
Weather: Variable clouds with a chance of squally showers
Seas 5-9 feet, SW to W swell and wind wave chop

Sun, December 9
00: 300-320/20-30
06: 220-250/25-35
12: 210-230/30-40 near 51 15s/64 30w
18: 220-240/20-30
Weather: Mostly cloudy with showers and squalls
Seas building to 10-15 feet, increasing SW swell and wind wave chop

Mon, December 10
00: 200-230/20-30
12: 220-240/25-35 near 47 30s/64 10w
Weather: Variable clouds with scattered squally showers
Seas 10-15 feet early, then decreasing to 8-12 feet, SW swell and wind wave chop

Tue, December 11
00: 330-360/15-25
12: 230-260/15-25 near 44s/63w
Weather: Variably cloudy with a chance of showers and squalls
Seas decreasing to 5-9 feet, confused swell

Wed, December 12
00: 010-040/15-22
12: 290-320/15-25 near 40 30s/60 30w
Weather: Variably cloudy with a chance of showers and squalls
Seas mainly 5-9 feet, confused swell and wind wave chop

Location 51° 50S, 63° 15W
Sunday 12.09.2007

The Schooner Maggie B was at 51° 50S, 63° 15W at noon on December 9th. We were running north at 8-12 knots before a Southerly gale. The skies are clearing up and the rain has mostly stopped. It is a little warmer, which isn’t very warm. We have the main up with three reefs, the fore up full and the jib about half reefed. The wind waves are developing into small swells that we surf from time to time. Jorge, the Furuno autopilot, is doing a great job.

At noon the wind was only 15 knots and some might have been tempted to break out our three-reefed main, but the barometer was down at 984 millibars and we knew to be ready for the next blow. Rather than heading straight for Buenos Aires, we are edging somewhat in towards the Argentinean coast to reduce somewhat the height of the waves and to hopefully avoid a northerly that may come in the next few days with the next front. The new Commanders Weather should be posted soon so all can see the trade-offs we are making.

We have come 408 NM since Puerto Williams and have 1056 to go to the Buenos Aires.

We are all looking forward to leaving the Furious Fifties behind for the relative calm of the Roaring Forties.

All is well.

Location 54° 21S, 64° 18W
Saturday 12.08.2007

On December 8th, the Schooner Maggie B was at 54° 21S, 064° 18W. We were headed north at 8 knots! Clouds behind us, clear ahead. The forecast from Commanders and the GRIB files make things look pretty good. Mostly 15-25 knot westerlies for the next five days.

We have come 244 NM from Puerto Williams and have 1212 NM to go to Buenos Aires. At this speed, we should make Buenos Aires on December 15th, which assumes an extra day to go upriver.

Last night was quite blowy in Puerto Hoppner. We were very, very glad not to be at sea. We had our anchor out with 120 feet of chain in 20 feet of water, a line from our bow to shore and two lines from our stern to each shore. Thanks goodness, because the night was full of williwaw/rachas. Gusts of 40 knots or more would hit from all directions, including vertically. One line to shore would be as tight as to sing, then instants later it would be completely slack and the line on the other side would tighten up. We have a rough door made of a 2 by 4 as a cross piece and strips of heavy plastic hanging down to help keep the warmth in. A gust pulled it out from being jammed into the top of the hatch and flew it ashore.

We are now sailing with three reefs in the main and one in the fore. I would have preferred two reefs in the main, but our tear with Hannah’s patch is near the second reef cringle, and I don’t want to stress it. Hannah’s patch is in blue material and makes it look as if we have a #1 on the white sail. Why not?

It is so great to be back in “our” ocean again after a year of the Indian and the Pacific! No more barriers between us and home, though surely there will be more adventures in this last 7600 NM.

All is well.

The Maggie B featured in the Dec. 2007 issue of Yachting World

Author Annie Hill, whom we met while berthed in New Zealand, praises the Maggie B in this article in the December 2007 issue of Yachting World. You can read a pdf version here, complete with photos of the crew and the Maggie B.

Location 54° 47S, 64° 24W
Friday 12.07.2007

At 1100, the Schooner Maggie B was safely anchored in Puerto Hoppner, on the NW side of Isla de los Estados, Argentina, at 54° 47S, 64° 24W. It is raining and blowing about 30 knots in the anchorage. But we have three lines ashore and the anchor our in mud with 140 feet of half-inch chain in 20 feet of water €” if we are not safe here, we will never be.

After passing the Horn yesterday, we continued for the Straits of Le Maire. That’s the place where for half the day the Atlantic tries to fill up the Pacific and half the day it is the other way around. We had pretty light winds between the Horn and the Straits. In fact, it was essentially calm and we hit it at high water slack. Even with no wind and no tide, the waves bursting through the 14 mile gap were sharp enough to regularly send green water over the bow. I can’t imagine what it must be like on a bad day.

We decided to tuck into this tight cove because we all felt that we had about used up our luck and should sit out this next gale. Having an effortless passage around the Horn and across the Straits of Marie is about all the luck one could hope for. We didn’t want the sea and wind gods to think that we assumed good treatment.

Those of you accessing Google Earth will see how narrow the entrance is to the inner harbor. Yes, we made it through at just about low tide. I knew that it wasn’t low tide because there was about a 3-4 knot current coming out. We had only 2-4 feet to the rocks on either side. Alden’s kayak experience helped him as bow watch to read the water and current. We had to gun it going through, and fully commit as we needed the power and velocity for control. We had crew on both sides with our big fenders, to be ready for the worst. From the helm I could only see rock on either side. Those on the starboard would yell “Come Port!” and those on the port side would yell “Come Starboard!” but I only listened to Alden. There was all of five feet under the keel. We didn’t touch.

When we got into the little caleta to “park her,” we were happy to see shore lines tied to a prominent, useful tree, at the top of a ten foot cliff. Alden selected the heaviest rope to use as an aide to climb the cliff so that we could place ours. About 2/3’s the way up the line parted and Alden ejected off the small cliff into 46 degree water. He was out of the water and into the Reep so fast there was hardly time for a splash.

We expect to continue tomorrow to Buenos Aires, which is about 1200 NM away.

All is well.

Now to the East of Cape Horn

The Schooner Maggie B rounded Cape Horn at 1800, December 6th. The wind was a 10 knot westerly and we were under all plain sail. We have now altered our course to the Northeast, towards home. We expect the Straits of Marie at 0415 tomorrow morning, high water slack. The barometer is down to 993, down 12 millibars since 0600.

All is well.

Location 55° 26S, 67° 06W
Thursday 12.06.2007

The Schooner Maggie B was at 55° 26S, 67° 06W at noon on December 6th. We have come 45 NM from Puerto Williams and have 33 NM to go to the Horn. The Horn! We estimate to pass it at 1600.

The weather is nice! We have a light (15 knot) NW wind and the overcast is midlevel. It isn’t raining! There are even “bright intervals.” But this is very much literally the calm before the storm. The barometer was at 1000 at noon and it has dropped another millibar as of this writing. Some very significant pressure is coming in from the West. The Horn should have 30-40 knots tomorrow.

We hope to stay ahead of the storm, at least for a while. If we pass the Horn at 1600, we should be at the Straits of Le Maire (between Terra del Fuego and Staten Island) at about 0400 tomorrow, which would be perfect asthat would be first light and the end of the very vicious north-going flood tide. The Straits have a terrible reputation: 10 meter standing waves are regularly reported when the strong northerly flood is opposed by a strong northerly (opposite) wind.

As always, we are keeping our options open. There are two good anchorages in the vicinity of the Horn — we’ll tuck in one if we get jumped early. Right after the Straits of Le Maire there is an excellent anchorage on Staten Island, which we will use if the wind promises to be too strong for us to head north right away. But so far so good. This is about as good a “window” as one can get for the Horn in spring.

Getting resuppled in Puerto Williams yesterday was a huge teamwork task. With no real supermarket, we got food from three different stores. Propane took several hours and some good luck. For diesel, we had to move to the main Armada pier (after getting permission and getting the gas station to send out their truck). Laundry took a long walk, some cajoling, much money and wasn’t delivered back to the boat until 2300. The Post Office was friendly but complicated — it costs more to send mail from Puerto Williams than Puerto Montt? And the Armada/Customs/Immigration was…bureaucratic. We did not get our Zarpa issued and passports back until 0130 this morning. We left at 0600.

All is well.

Location 54° 56S, 67° 37W
Wednesday 12.05.2007

We are moored safely in Puerto Williams near the Club Naval de Yates Micalvi, at 54° 56S, 67° 37W. Micalvi is a former Chilean Navy ammunition ship, sunk on purpose to be the base for the Club de Yates. It has a variety of boats scattered around it like a sow with piglets. Micalvi looks as if it would have sunk by now, even if not sunk on purpose. There is just a little bar that opens occasionally in the old wheel house. Last week the electricity to the boat blew up so there are no lights, no washing machines, no showers.

The raft of boats around the Micalvi didn’t have room for us to join the pile, and many promised to be off early the next day to make space for us, so we went out to a huge Armada mooring buoy, scaring off a nesting gull (sorry WWF). Alden did an upside-down trapeze stunt while trying to set lines, but somehow managed to stay out of the water.

We cleared through the Armada for arrival. Our plan is to watch the weather, load up on supplies, and wander the town a bit. Puerto Williams is a depressed naval base with only a little civilian dressing on it. I suspect that they look across the Beagle Channel at Ushuaia and envy their success at being a tourist destination. We were rather astounded to see perhaps half a dozen tourist boats skittering around the Beagle Channel in the snow, obviously showing hearty visitors a seal, a porpoise and an albatross.

If things work perfectly, including the weather cooperating, we will be off early tomorrow for the Horn.

All is well.

Location 54° 58S, 69° 00W
Tuesday 12.04.2007

At noon on December 4th, the Schooner Maggie B was at 54° 58S, 069° 00W, just passing Isla del Diablo in the Beagle Straits. The wind continues to be 10-35 knots directly behind us, whistling down the channel, bringing rain, sleet and snow with it.

We have come 1199 NM from Puerto Montt and have 48 NM to go to Puerto Williams and 84 NM to go to the Horn. We should be tied up at Micalvi Yacht Club in Puerto Williams by dinner time tonight. The Yacht Club is run by the Armada and consists of a former ammunition ship, half sunk on purpose to be a base. We expect it to be full of characters.

We are setting plans to do all our tasks tomorrow: refuel diesel and propane, restock food, mail letters, do laundry, refresh our Zarpa with the Armada, and clear Customs and Immigration.

The weather just might let us go on the 6th. That day is supposed to be pretty good. Light winds — only 15-20 knots. Maybe even clear. The problem is the 7th, when the next front is due, with winds of 30-40 knots. Our choices are three: wait in Puerto Williams for the prospect of two good days together; leave on the 6th and either A) keep going after the Horn (if we leave at 6 AM, would be around at @ 1700), or B) tuck in one of the two safe nearby anchorages after passing the Horn and wait out the blow. We’ll see.

All is well.

Addendum to Posting for Monday 12.03.2007

As the crew of the Maggie B we often are not privileged to proofread the daily updates prior to their posting. As such we are often as surprised as anyone else to learn what happened in the past 24 hours, or at least what the Captain seems to remember happening. Though I am happy to report that everything in updates for December 3rd appears to have happened in reality, it calls for an addendum. The ‘we had trouble’ with the anchor falls woefully short in describing what the crew lists as in the top ten dumbest ideas of all time.

The anchoring process did begin well with the crew working as a well oiled machine; lowering the Reep, setting up and dropping the anchor, playing out the shore lines, and looking ever so good doing it. It was not until Alden and Curtis were fighting a stiff breeze in the Reep to get a shore line set up that the anchor began dragging (’The Italians,’ authors of our cruising guide, gave the spot a ‘fair’ rating, one needs to realize that ‘fair’ falls well below ‘good’ ‘very good’ and ‘excellent’) Returning to the Maggie B, new options were discussed with us settling on rowing the anchor ashore to the rocky peninsula as a bow line. (Alden’s note: I am loath to admit myself an early proponent of this plan, but I would soon pay for this folly.) Positioning Reep under the anchor while trying not to get dragged under the bow, as the Maggie B needed to keep some forward momentum into the wind, we were only able to lower it between the two forward seats and not in the stern (bad idea number 2). To call rowing the Reep into the wind, laden with an anchor, and dragging heavy chain a challenge would be a small understatement, especially as the anchor’s position meant that the chain continuously wrapped itself around Curtis’ oar. With the help of good sailorly cursing and muscle tearing strokes we got close enough to shore to begin shipping oars only to have a gust push away the Maggie B, pulling the chain, pop out Curtis’ oar, and spin the Reep. Starting over Alden and Curtis again made for the shore, pretending not to hear the Captain’s gentle suggesting that the anchor be brought back. Again within striking distance, and refusing to fall off again, Alden hopped out into water putting the future of his progeny in doubt. Throwing out their backs, the (incredibly handsome and strong) shore party dragged the anchor as far as possible before wedging the tip under the biggest bolder and covering the rest with all the nearby stones. Too tired or modest to cheer they returned to the now safely secured Maggie B, grudgingly allowing themselves to be replaced for the next two (easy) shorelines.

So yes, ‘we had trouble’ with anchoring that night.

Location 54° 25S, 71° 57W
Monday 12.03.2007

At noon on December 3rd, the Schooner Maggie B was at 54° 25S, 71° 57W, just making our way through Canal Cockburn. The weather continues poor. The wind is from the SW, occasionally 10-15 knots, but with gusts to 40 knots. The sky is overcast with williwaws full of rain, snow, ice pellets and hail. The fresh snow level on all the mountains and hills is down to about 500 feet. Welcome to
Spring in Patagonia!

We have come 1072 NM from Puerto Montt and have 186 NM to go to the Horn. We intend to press on late tonight, hopefully making it to an anchorage in Caleta Emilita at 54° 53S, 70° 23W. From there we will have about 100 NM to go to Puerto Williams, which should be possible in one more long day.

Last night we had trouble getting the anchor to dig in in Caleta Cluedo, a spot described as having only fair anchoring. Alden and Curtis were able to haul the anchor ashore on a handy rocky peninsula, and they wedged it in and covered it with stones. We added two shore lines to be sure of a quiet night.

In the morning as we got underway, a small fishing boat came by and sold us three King Crab (centello) - about 10 pounds worth. We traded for a bottle of Famous Grouse scotch and a pack of cigarettes. They were boiled up immediately with a garlic-butter dipping sauce. It was better than the best lobster I have ever had. We have enough for several days — hooray!

All is well.

Commanders’ Weather Corporation
Sunday, 1610utc, 12.02.2007

From: Commanders’ Weather Corporation
Route: Puerto Montt to Puerto Williams
Est position: 53° 32S, 73° 30W at 0200utc Sun, December 2, 2007
Prepared: 1610 utc Sunday, December 2, 2007

Summary

Routing

Wind forecasts
Wind directions are TRUE, wind speed in kts, and time is UTC
Offshore seas WSW 15-20 feet in exposed areas, largely swell

Sun Dec 2
Weather: Partly cloudy with few scattered showers
Seas building to 6-8ft during the day, SW swell

Mon, Dec 3 - Into Beagle Channel
00: 270-290/15-25
06: 270-290/15-25
12: 250-270/24-32 trough passage
18: 250-270/22-30
Weather: Mostly cloudy with scattered showers or a squall, especially morning, then partial clearing
Offshore seas 14-18 feet with WSW swell

Tue, Dec 4 - Beagle channel to Puerto Williams
00: 260-280/15-25
06: 290-320/10-20
12: 270-250/18-30 g35 trough passage
18: 250-270/14-22
Weather: Mostly cloudy with scattered showers or a squall, especially morning. Variable clouds later, chance shower
Offshore seas building to 12-15 feet from the SW

Wed, Dec 5 - Puerto Williams
00: 260-220/18-30 another trough passage
06: 220-240/15-25
12: 210-230/15-25
18: 220-240/12-20
Weather: Partly cloudy
Offshore seas 9-12 ft, with subsiding SW swell

Thu, Dec 6
00: 220-240/ 7-14
12: 320-360/ 7-14 depart?
Weather: Partly cloudy day. Showers at night
Offshore seas subsiding to 5-8 feet, SW to W swell

Fri outlook - winds becoming SW 30-40 toward Cape Horn with seas building toward 14-18 ft from the SW

Location 53° 42S, 72° 04W
Sunday 12.02.2007

The Schooner Maggie B was at 53° 42S, 072° 04W at noon on December 2nd. We were motoring down the Straits of Magellan with just the jib helping us along. The wind is dead behind us at 20-35 knots. The day has mostly cleared up with only occasional rain squalls. Some sun, even! And the barometer is all the way up to 1001! Please see the web site for today’s Commander’s forecast for the Horn. Somewhat promising.

We have come 1013 NM from Puerto Montt and have 215 NM to go to the Horn.

Last night was quiet and pleasant in Bahia Borgia though initially we pulled out a substantial tree with our shore line during a racha (williwaw). It is a historic cove, a logical spot to stop before or after Paso Tortuoso in the Straits. This is the harbor that has a collection of ship’s names on boards, nailed to trees. Joshua Slocum mentions it in his book “Sailing Alone around the World,” on page 122 of our edition, together with a sketch. He anchored there 111 years ago. We didn’t see his board, but there were many, many others. Slocum found the place depressing — we found it lovely.

The oldest that we saw was from 1958. We added one from the Maggie B, and took lots of photos. I was particularly delighted to see a board with “Jolie Brise” on it. She is a famous French pilot cutter. We have a drawing of her in our house, done when she was in the inner harbor in Honfleur, France. While the Maggie B is nothing like the Jolie Brise, she was in some ways the inspiration for the “look and feel” of our schooner. I am as thrilled and honored to have been in the harbor with her as with the Spray.

Alden is making bread for us tonight!

Tonight, we hope to be in Caleta Cluedo at 54° 16S, 071° 47W or Caleta Luis at 54deg20.4S/071deg48W, both on Isla Clarence, near Canal Cockburn. We hope to be in Puerto Williams by December 4th, and hopefully pass the Horn, en route to Buenas Aires on the 6th.

All is well.

Location 52° 45S, 73° 52W
Saturday 12.01.2007

Happy December! The Schooner Maggie B was at Happy December! The Schooner Maggie B was at 52° 45S, 073° 52W at noon on December First. At noon we were rounding Isla Falgate where Canal Smyth meets the Straits of Magellan. We have come 930 NM from Puerto Montt and have 294 NM to go to the Horn.

The weather continues to be poor. Outside, in the Pacific, the wind has shifted to the North at 40-45. Inside that means steady 35 knots with gusts to 45. It hailed on Curtis’s watch, rather coating the cockpit with pea-sized pellets. Rain showers come and go, though we get occasional glimpses of sun.

Yesterday’s trip down Canal Smyth was fairly uneventful. Alden won first prize for spotting interesting sights, first detecting the wreck of the Santa Leono (USA), a huge rusting hulk of a 300 foot steamer, which had missed the turn at Paso Shoal. The steamer Hazel Branch was also wrecked in almost the same spot in 1904, but only a few ribs were left of her. Alden also spotted a school of Peal’s Dolphins which included two mother/baby pairs.

Our anchorage last night was lovely, tucked up in a little narrow caleta calledTeokita. It was so narrow coming in, we wouldn’t have fitted if we had been towing Reep alongside. We had fenders ready though we carried at least 20 feet the half mile in. Because of the wind direction, we set shore lines first, and then slid out to set the anchor. That probably was a mistake as we didn’t dig in the anchor with 50% throttle astern, as we usually do. We set three shore lines in trees, including attaching one to a line thoughtfully left by another boat ona perfectly positioned tree that was relatively inaccessible due to a steep bank. The night was quiet and mostly snug.

In the morning the wind was working its way right down the narrow caleta, blowing 35 knots in the anchorage. The anchor was slipping us back towards shore bit by bit, despite having 120 feet of chain in 20 feet of water. We had faintly been thinking of a “layover day” but the prospect of getting blown ashore quickly dismissed that. Going out was quite wild. We had to keep a fair bit of speed as the wind was throwing the boat around and there was no room to spare. All hands had either fenders or poles to fend off. A two meter swell was breaking across the mouth of the cove. Curtis on the bow made the steering calls and the Maggie B responded to every turn and twist, fair jumping out of the mouth like a champagne cork.

Now we are scudding down the Straits of Magellan under bare poles in a fresh gale with two-three knots of current with us. Thank God we are not trying to get West! We have come through Paso Roughwater and Bahia Corkscrew — ah, these English with their subtle sense of humor!

We hope to make Bahia Borja tonight, which is on Isla Riesco, just before Paso Tortuoso, where the Straits tighten up a bit. The position is
53° 31.8S, 72° 36W. This is a well-known historic cove because it has an arbol con tableros (trees with boards bearing ship’s names). This tradition is very old and was mentioned by Slocum over a hundred years ago. We will add a Maggie B one if we make it safely.

All is well.

Location 51° 46S, 73° 52W
Friday 11.30.2007

At noon on November 30th, the Schooner Maggie B was at 51° 46S, 73° 52W. We were motorsailing with just the fore up, in a 15-20 knot Northerly, which is right on our stern as we continue south. We have come 851 NM from Puerto Montt and have 344 to go to the Horn. The day is overcast with occasional light rain. While the wind baffles back and forth down the channels, there have not been any significant gusts. The barometer is up a bit to 997. According to the weather maps, it is continuing to blow 40 knots from the NW offshore.

Happily, the day has been peaceful.

Last night we were in a totally lovely spot up the end of a two mile reach. We carried 50 feet of water almost the whole way in, with the width sometimes being barely 60 feet. There were many wild ducks and geese, with some of the ducks in molt so they couldn’t fly, and they would splash away from us in a tizzy. Our anchorage was about 50 feet wide and 100 feet long — lines from the stern to shore and the anchor outside the notch in 30 feet of water, dug into thick mud. Nothing could have moved us.

Tonight we hope to be down near the end of Canal Smyth, just before it opens up into the Boca Ocidental of the Estrecho de Magallanes. It will be very exciting to see the straits. We may get as far as Caleta Teokita at 52° 41.2S, 073° 45.2W. Still no sign of the SW’erly shift.

It has been wonderful to see lots of Arctic Terns in the channels. We see - literally_ - the same birds in Maine in the Northern Summer. They travel 10,000 NM from the Bay of Fundy to Patagonia, an astonishing distance for what seems to be a very delicate bird.

In making the watch lists, Alden is using new nicknames like “blushiest” and “lawyeriest.” I wonder why he calls me “Dear Leader?”

All is well.