Tucked in City Marina, Charleston, South Carolina
5 May 2012

As of 5 May,

we are safe in Charleston, landed at the City Marina at about 6 PM. Exciting landing with full Spring tides making the "chute" about three knots. As they say, you can check in but not check out.

More soon.

All is well.

Frank Blair
Captain, Schooner FARFARER

A Day Away from Charleston
4 May 2012

At Noon on Friday, 4 May, the Schooner FARFARER was at 23°20N, 69°47W. We were under power, making 7.6 knots for Charleston, which is 212 NM away, or somewhat over a day's travel at this speed.

I wish I could say that we were motorsailing, but the fore is down and furled and the main is acting more like a big flag on a pole than anything aerodynamic. Our ever-precise wind gauge says the wind at 12 feet is "000 at 2.3 knots." On the surface of the water there are only occasional ripples to show the blueness rather than the general expressionless flat silver reflection of the high clouds above. Flying Fish regularly explode from the surface to dart away from this big predator, and the Watch sees occasional fins in the distance, probably of patrolling tuna.

We are just getting into the Gulf Stream. We were somewhat knocked off course last night by what must have been an eddy. Now the water is up to 74 degrees from the 70 of yesterday.

There have been no ships about for a day. Yesterday we spoke to two large catamarans who were traveling in company from Georgetown to New York. Late morning today I saw a P-3 Orion in the distance. It is an submarine hunter, that is also used for fisheries patrol. We got a few radar hits in the area where it was circling, and now are expecting periscopes to pop up anytime

All is well.

Frank Blair
Captain, Schooner FARFARER

Stone Soup Recipe
3 May 2012

At noon on Thursday, 3 May, the Schooner FARFARER was at 28°02N, 74°40W. We were making 7.5 knots motorsailing directly for Charleston, which is 384 NM away, or about two days. We have worked our way out of our lovely Trades, though there is a picturesque 5-8 knot ruffle on the water from the NE. The swell has laid down, the barometer is all the way up to 30.94 (1022 metric). Little fluffy clouds cover about 1/3 the sky and the barometer says "Very Dry."

The forecasts say that we should keep this the rest of the way in. Last night was stunning. The moon was at about 2/3rds and bright enough to trim sail by moonlight. At one point Venus, Betelgeuse (Yad al-Jauza or Orion's Hand) and Sirius (The Big Dog) were all setting to the West in a row, like three hunters spreading out in a field.

We have been eating very well. Frozen fish from Antigua and fresh vegetables from the BVI have kept us full of great meals. Last night after a big lunch there wasn't a big push for a dinner. I ended up making "stone soup," starting with a stone and water in a pot, then adding some cut up potatoes, then carrots, then garlic, then an onion, then some green peppers, then a pack of frozen spinach, then some frozen peas, then a little Knorr Leek soup mix, some bouillon, spices and Tabasco, remove the stone and serve. A good success.

We have a minor crisis on board. Anne-Louise has been reading Ondaatje's Divisadero, Teddy: Annie Proulx's Shipping News and I reread O'Brian's Blue at the Mizzen. We all finished our books this morning and are in the complicated dance of deciding what to read next, combined with the somewhat crabby downer of finishing something lovely.

All is well.

Frank Blair
Captain, Schooner FARFARER

Crossing the 10,000 NM milestone
2 May 2012

At Noon on Tuesday, 2 May, the Schooner FARFARER was at 25°51N, 72°31W. We were making 8.8 knots directly for Charleston in a 12 knot Easterly Trade. We made 215 NM in the last 24 hours and 630 NM in the last three days from St. John. The day is bright with only small fair weather clouds and a temperature of 74 for the air and 70 for the water. We are 550 NM out of Charleston.

Last night about midnight the closest land was equally San Salvador (formally Watling) Island and Samana Cay in the Bahamas. They are interesting because the recent translation of Columbus's log together with computer modeling of his described route from island to island indicate that they are the only two possible places for "Guanahini," his first landfall on October 12, 1492.

FARFARER's Furuno navigation system keeps a log of miles traveled. We are currently about 9930 NM underway, crossing the 10,000 NM milestone sometime tonight. A fair distance for her first 17 months in the water.

The closest land is Harbour Island off of Eleuthera, where I spent many happy Spring Vacations with my family growing up. We are about level with Pompano Beach, Florida.

Teddy is only recently out of his teens and has retained, to Anne-Louise and my envy, the teenagers' ability to sleep every moment off duty. He is an excellent watch-keeper, galley cleaner-upper, and ready when called out to reef or work the boat, but otherwise....asleep. An excellent sailor's skill.

All is well.

Frank Blair
Captain, Schooner FARFARER

The Real May Day Update
1 May 2012

You will be glad to know that the three of us are now back in full control of FARFARER. We are not sure who those people were on board last night.

At Noon on Tuesday, 1 May, the schooner FARFARER was at 23°20N, 69°47W. We were making 9.7 knots for Charleston. We made 198 NM in the last day, 430 in the last two days. The Trades have been varying from 070 to 110 and at speeds between 10-18 knots. Currently it is overcast with small rain showers in the vicinity.

The nearest land is Drum Point in the East Caicos, about 130 NM to the Southwest.

We are seeing (visually or on radar) a series of big ships going by, probably coming out of the Windward Passage between Cuba and Haiti and making for Europe. We have about 770 NM to go to Charleston. The Trades are forecast to peter out about half way between here and there, and we are going to work with Commanders Weather on the best Gulf Stream and approach strategy given the Continental weather patterns.

All is well.

Frank Blair
Captain, Schooner FARFARER

Studying Rey’s ‘The Stars’
1 May 2012

The two squeakers had been studying their beloved "The Stars" by H. A. Rey in anticipation of being ready for the Old Man's quizzing. The night wasn't promising as the rain showers passed one after another and he kept driving her, topsails and all. 9.7. 10.4, even 11.5 as the line smoked off the reel each hour.

Standing by the wheel with only the red glow of the compass light and frothy waves showing green in the starboard running light, he kept his pipe going with only a slight ducking of his head as the spray reached up. An occasional word to Jorge at the helm as she would surf down a long swell or respond to a gust from a passing squall.

A dim light was seen in the distance to windward. He sniffed the air and muttered "Portugee" to Jorge, who nodded. "Looks as if he's having a rough night of it." Another nod. But he called the watch to tighten the luff of the dimly seen mainsail to get the last ounce of drive from her.

As a star or two would flash out between the showers, he would say a name and nod in the general direction. "Aldebran in Scorpio" came the answer. Later another star and another name "Spica in the Virgin," voice cracking, to muffled laughter from the Port Watch huddling in the spray and rain by the foremast.

"He's driving her" needlessly commented a hand to the Bosun, who was eying a cringle loosening up. "He's got a date in Charleston" cracked Luis, who considered himself worldly.

All is well.

Frank Blair
Captain, Schooner FARFARER

Five Days to Charleston
30 April 2012

At Noon on Monday, 30 April, the Schooner FARFARER was at 20°58N, 67°23W. We made 216 NM since Noon yesterday. The wind has been constant from 100 degrees, starting at 18 knots yesterday and subsiding to 10-12 today. Currently we are averaging 8 knots with our relative wind at 7-10 knots on our Starboard quarter. There is an easy long 6-8 foot swell from the NE.

We are on a direct route towards Charleston, about 960 NM to our Northwest. It appears now that we will keep these lovely Trades for another day or so and then run out of breeze and have to motor the last bit. Charleston is about five days away.

The nearest land is Samana, Dominican Republic, about 140 NM to our Southwest.

I am reading a a fascinating book Do Dolphins Ever Sleep? by Pierre-Yves and Sally Bely. They state that "Trade Winds" doesn't come from "winds used in trade or commerce" but rather that "trade" is Old English for "even, stable, regular." We have see no birds, no dolphin, no whales. We are in about 16,000 feet of water. Upwellings bring food to the surface and keys off the food chain. So everybody must be somewhere else eating each other.

We are seeing sargassum weed, which also slows me down from putting out a fishing line. No fun spending your time catching weed.

The Bely's book (see above) has a fascinating theory about sea turtle migration in the Southern Atlantic. The females lay their eggs along the SE Coast of the US, but then travel thousands of miles to the Azores and Canary Islands, where there is a big concentration of the jellyfish they eat. The males stay on the Eastern side, but the females swim back to lay eggs, etc. The theory posits plate tectonics as the reason. Turtles were land animals 200 million years ago. When they returned to the sea, it wasn't too far across from the Azores to the beaches of what is now Georgia. But two inches a year for 200 million years has made the "commute" rather further.

We have had our first injury. Anne-Louise dropped the olive oil bottle on her foot whilst making Tuna Wasabi for lunch. Aaarg, the sailor's life is a hard one.

All is well.

Frank Blair
Captain, Schooner FARFARER

Like Sailing Next to Everest, Upside Down
29 April 2012

At noon on Sunday, 29 April, the Schooner FARFARER was at 18°23N, 64°49W, having just cleared Carval Rock in the Windward Passage and staying below Little Tobago, our last point of land before Charleston. Charleston is 1180 NM away on a heading of NNW (333 Magnetic). We were making 9.2 knots directly on course. The wind is 100 degrees at 15 knots, and is forecast to remain like this for the next three or four days.

This is just the sweetest sailing one could do in FARFARER or perhaps any boat. The wind is 10 knots on the beam on deck, the air is 78, the water is 75. There is an easy 4-6 foot Easterly swell and the decks are mostly dry, with only occasionally a little spray to remind the Watch of their Duty.

The ocean here is astonishing. The Virgins are in line with Puerto Rico. In less than 40 miles from our position in 65 feet of water, the depth plunges to 23,000 feet. It is rather like sailing next to Mt. Everest, just upside down.

I really never expected yesterday to work out. Just too many possibilities for problems. But amazingly, I was able to pick Ted up in Ruthie off the last ferry into Cruz Bay, all legally admitted to the USA. We rowed back to F/F, dropped the mooring, motored up into Caneel Bay, picked up another mooring, changed into our finest(?) and had a world class dinner at Caneel Bay Resort's top restaurant.

Teddy did a masterful job of working out the details. He was to take a 4:15 ferry, but they told him at the last minute that he had to have an "ESTA" filled out electronically ahead of attempting entry into the US. "At least 72 hours before!" But then he was advised that it usually happens immediately. He hustled computer, Internet connect and printer from the various Ferry ladies, as he watched his boat leave. But then found out that The Last Boat (from another company) was an hour later. The application cost $14, US Credit Card, which I was able to supply.

Rowing over to pick up Teddy at sunset, I had a Spotted Ray come within 3 feet of jumping into Ruthie. He jumped three feet into the air, I went much higher. We all went for a lovely swim before breakfast and departing. I had also rowed over to pay our $15 mooring fee. It is just like a parking lot - the moorings have numbers, prices and instructions on them. There is a small float with payment box and all. At 0800 we were approached by a very serious Park Ranger in a high speed boat, who requested documentation of our length, because he couldn't believe that we were under 60 feet (the max for our mooring). Not only F/F IS fast, she looks fast! He nicely wished us a pleasant journey once I produced our certificate.

At the time of this writing (1500) we have covered 30 NM since noon. Whee!

All is well.

Frank Blair
Captain, Schooner FARFARER

Moored off Lind Point, St. John’s USVI
28 April 2012

At sunset, Saturday 28 April, the Schooner FARFARER was moored just off Lind Point, around the corner from Cruz Bay, St. John's USVI. It is lovely, but somewhat rolly.

It has been a complicated day. As previously reported, we are in the Virgins to "wash" Teddy into the US, by way of commercial carrier between the British and US Virgins, which are only a few miles apart. We had a successful run last night from Green Island, Antigua to West End, BVI, about 200 NM in all. It wasn't a great sail. We had a big following sea with the wind on our quarter, varying from 10-15 knots. Sloppy. We motorsailed in order to "hit our numbers" with logistics.

We used the watch system known as "Two twos." It is set up for three people or watches. During the 12 hours of day - 6 AM to 6 PM, there are three four hour watches. At night there are two, two hour watches for each. Poor Ted had the first morning watch, which was to be from 6 AM to 8 AM (as we expected to be arriving). The ships clock stopped at 7:30 AM, giving him a loooong morning. Sometimes, when waiting for something, it is as if the clock's hands never move. It was true in this case.

We arrived at West End, Tortola, BVI on schedule a bit before noon, and cleared without a hitch. After lunch, we dropped Ted off for his 4:15 ferry. Anne-Louise and I took F/F the six miles to Cruz Bay, St. John's. The Customs house was tucked into a tiny part of the harbor, which had me major sweating. We were able to dock with only a little damage to Government Property, and were whisked through Customs and Immigration. We spun out and snuck around the corner to await Ted's arrival.

Then the phone calls started. Ted was jumped with a bunch of new complications. The application had to be on line in advance, a US Credit Card was needed, etc. The 4:15 "last boat" was missed, but there turned out to be an unlisted 6 PM one. We are standing by. When he arrives, I'll row the 1/2 mile to pick him up and return to F/F. We were intending to have dinner in town and row back, but I noticed a nice beach and handsome hotel ahead in a protected cove (did I mention it is rolly here). Checking the chart, the beach is Caneel Bay. I called up the resort and we have reservations for dinner at 8 PM. Work, work, work, shift on and off.

We plan to leave tomorrow morning for Charleston, which is 1178 NM away. Perhaps six days. The forecast is perfect.

All is well.

Frank Blair
Captain, Schooner FARFARER

“Sind sie von die Sud Tirol?”
27 April 2012

At noon on Friday, 27 April,, Farfarer was at 17°17N, 61°49W, just crossing from the Atlantic to the Caribbean, between the islands of Antigua and Barbuda. We are making 8 knots in a confused sea with an ESE trade wind of 12-15 knots. On board is Anne-Louise Dauphinee of Halifax, a friend who sailed on Maggie B's first leg in 2006, and captain and owner of the schooner Sorca. Also with us is Teddy Curd of England and Halifax, son of a friend, Liza Kirwan who also knew us from the Maggie B days in Antigua and sailed with us as a photographer. Ted's complication is that, though we are closest friend with Great Britain, the US visa waiver program requires that GBR passport holders arrive in the States on a commercial carrier, which FARFARER is not.

So we are headed to West End of Tortola, BVI, which belongs to the Queen. We will clear in there, the three of us aboard F/F. Teddy will leave us, and grab a ferry for the nearby St. Johns in the US Virgin Islands, a distance of 5-6 miles, and enter the US all legal-like. We arrive shortly after and clear into the USVI. We pick up supplies and...surprise...find Teddy sitting on the wharf, with his passport all stamped with a 90 day entry permit. We leave for Charleston and have no further customs as we are going from US territory to US territory. Of course, so much can go wrong....

Back to Classic Race Week, which seems so long ago. First and foremost, it was a great time. We had good winds, good friends and amazing boats to race with. The races were well run and F/F went really well almost every leg. It is so interesting to me that we have so many miles on her, but are still very much just beginning to get to know her. What is fun about Classic Race Week is that there are a bunch or similar boats and we can see exactly how one sail trim or another works. "How are we pointing with Kate? How are we footing with Heron?" And so on. We went particularly well close hauled, and got knocked about less than other boats when the swells were up a bit.

The last day had gig races in Nelson's Dockyard. Ruthie excelled. She won every race she entered, except for one, where she was beaten by The Prince of Monaco's four oared gig, which had been shipped in. If we only had had two sets of oars, I know we could have got that one two!

Tim Wight of Photoaction got some great photos, which are up on his web site. I hope to buy the set and we will have them up on our site. He is so crazy to watch in action, zipping around in the tiniest Zodiac, right under your bows.

We cleared out of Nelson's Dockyard yesterday and spent last night in a little harbor off of Green Island, Antigua. We wanted just a little taste of Antigua other than dockyards and marinas (though we did row to beaches in Ruthie most days). The harbor was enlivened (?) by a Sunsail rental with a group of six Italians on board who had been drinking and smoking ganja....for some time. They had us and the three other people in the anchorage over for some pasta.

I became somewhat interested when I heard them speaking German to each other. I asked "Sind sie von die Sud Tirol?" and they erupted. The South Tirol has changed hands between Austria and Italy with each war. They talked passionately about independence and mistreatment by the government, etc. Then they started asking if we knew which of the many villas we could see was Burlesconi's (sp?). I asked if they were looking for underage girls or what. Much laughter, but more questions. In retrospect I suspect that we accidentally came across a cell of Sud Tirol terrorists looking to kidnap the ex-president and exchange him for independence. You heard it here first.

Leaving Green Island was complicated as our small anchor likes to wrap itself up in the recovery line, rather like how a spider treats a fly caught in its net. We got that sorted out and raised the main sail motoring out into a rather rough set of rollers coming in around the island. The main boom proceeded to snap off a very solid fitting that we use to help rotate the mast. Not much later, she buried her nose in a wave, that knocked the little anchor out of it's snug holder. It banged up the paint work for a bit until Teddy and I could get it back on board and lashed down. The real disaster was that I lost my great Kaenon sunglasses in the tangle.

At the time of this writing (2100), we are motor sailing down the Drake Passage. We have a 10-15 knot easterly behind us, so the fore is down as it only thrashed about. Sint Eustatius and Saba are to port and Sint Barthelemy to starboard. Saba particularly looks like a giant cruise ship headed to cut us in half. There is lots of traffic coming down the passage with a "meeting situation" pretty much every half hour.

All is well.

Frank Blair
Captain, Schooner FARFARER