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Chart Us »
In the old days, Navy ships made a great ritual about finding the ship's position at Noon, which was the start of the Naval Day. We hope, given connection challenges, to update our Latitude and Longitude each day and display a Google map and satellite photo of locations for the current leg of our journey.
Check in here to find the most recent info on our coordinates.
Schooner Maggie B on Friday the 13th of June
Well, the Maggie B was hauled out in Lunenburg and trucked over to Petite Rivere, and is sitting (standing?) in the very spot where she was built. The plan is to make her ready for a few months cruize, starting in August. So we are doing all the steps to make her safe and whole, though not necessarily a full overhaul. There will be more time this winter (from November to May) to finish up stuff.
Right now, her rig is out and being gone over. Certainly there will be a lot of stainless steel welding to fix the mast top fittings. The Yanmar and the Onan are out and shipped for overhaul. The “sacrificial” part of the keel, the bottom ten inches behind the lead ballast, was mostly sacrificed when we ran aground in Brazil, and it will be replaced. New paint has been ordered and will be flown up to Nova Scotia next week. John has found the places where the rudder was loose and that should be fixed soon.
The Reepicheep was trucked down to the Apprentice Shop in Rockland, where she was built. Close inspection showed that several ribs were cracked and will have to be replaced. Fixing Rep up has become a full training drill for the Apprentice Shop and it should be accomplished by fall, so it will be ready for next year’s adventures. I will have to find a replacement for this summer’s cruise.
Hannah and Curtis have signed on to the Elemiah, a Covey Island boat that is headed to the Med soon. They may end up based in Croatia! Rik and Danette are back hard at work in Lunenburg.
I hope to be up to see Maggie towards the end of June and will have new photos then.
All is well.
Maggie B in for a refit
The Schooner Maggie B is in for refit. These last few days have had all of us busy in stripping the boat for the yard. Hard, heavy work, and also hard emotionally. Today the masts come out and she will look even more of a hard case. It is strange to be down-rigging as the Bluenose II and the Picton Castle are bending on their sails, getting ready for sea.
Below is the provisional list of what needs checking and fixing after two years at sea and 38,400 NM. Really not too long a list. The plan is to have her ready by 1 August to use the last part of the season for cruising in Maine and Atlantic Canada. There will be some surprises as we take her apart, but hopefully nothing serious.
Hannah and Curtis have a fairly quick turn around to sail on another Covey Island boat, leaving June 7th for the Med. They’ll hardly have time to get dirt in between their toes!
I drive down tomorrow to Rockland, Maine in a small truck to deliver Reepicheep back to the Apprentice Shop for refit. Everybody is getting a make-over — perhaps I need a week at a spa also?
All is well.
A: SCHEDULE :
- In to the yard now for approx. 2 months of work, then launch/re-rig to be sailed for August / September
- Oct. to be hauled / stored for the winter and for any additional work not completed or added to list below
- Launch/commission in May ‘09 and prepared to Sail for Med.
B: LIST :
1. Rudder work — tighten pintle/gudgeon. Bushings for hydraulic connection.
- add cutless if possible to handle thrust load
- remove / refit hydraulic steering and bush as needed
- send Accusteer pump back for refit
2. Fix bottom and prop aperture.
- Cut deadwoods back to dry, good wood and repair as necessary
- Assume existing bottom paint will do for August / September sailing and touch up only as needed due to repairs
3. Make starboard tack shower pumpout.
If possible, re-plumb so manual pump goes directly o’board and also so it will work on both tacks.
4. Yanmar engine cockpit panel. Oil pressure gauge light out and key stuck in slot.
Refit / replace
5. Masthead anchor light (Lopolight) inop. Also rig slow flash anchor light, steaming light and stern light switch.
Can wait for winter if need be.
- Legal anchor light with also a slow flashing system : I spoke to Randy who says he can do this.
6. New deck lights that are better fixed in direction. One works, other inop.
- Lights need to be FIXED !!!
7. Fix worn stainless masthead fittings. General rig overhaul.
8. Better mast protections at places the jaws rub.
Recommended we wrap w/ e-glass epoxy 3 or 4 layers of 10 oz and repaint
9. Refinish of silver bali. Sand deck.
Note : Failed deck seams are marked w/ red marker
10. General cosmetic - hull, topsides and interior repaint.
11. Solve siphoning of mid and engine room bilge pumps when on starboard tack.
General note: relocate all float switches to c/l position and be certain all bilge pump outlet hoses a) have as high as possible loop and b) an anti-siphon loop at high point ….. which wherever possible should be located on c/l
12. Centerboard. Mechanical lock when full down. Seal leak.
Shaft seal is leaking.
13. Replace BEP Marine SENSI shore power fault sensor?). Burned.
This is located behind telephone panel.
14. Better swim ladder. Fusion??
15. Overhaul head. Fix blackwater tank.
Pressure test black water tank, it appears to have a blockage.
16. Replace Acu-gage Ultra-8 tanks systems monitor. (Have new LED, but is there a better system out there?
We sent a replacement panel, it is aboard but was not installed. Check w/ Rodney as to how he and Darcy came up with this system … swap out for Whema ?
17. Replace Profurl.
New system that Nigel was told about that solves the issue with the grub screws backing out.
18. New sails?
Frank will take sails and covers to North Sails.
19. Switch Yanmar alternator belt to “Premium Product”
Ask Liftow to change pulleys and add idler when they do the overhaul.
20. Fully go over Yanmar & Onan. Not sure it needs an overhaul, but want to go over everything.
Both main engine and Gen set are to be removed and shipped to dealer for complete Servicing.
21. Overhaul all electric motors: alternator, accu-steer.
22. Complete go over for Onan. New minor parts.
23. Capstan paul broken, switch inop in down, rusted housing.
Replace the ‘cover’
24. Horn only gives out a small toot. FIXED !!! (will go over it one day on run north to see if it can be simple fixed).
25. Replace cork flooring where worn out (forepeak)
Note: Also a general sand / refinish of soles throughout
26. Possible overhaul of Reepicheep. I asked if the Apprentice Shop could do it, but they may not be able to in a timely fashion.
Jeff will truck to Maine.
27. Fix split fore gaff end piece.
Remove end plug, wrap/glass as needed and replace end plug after turning down to allow expansion.
28. Night lights in two Furuno analog cockpit readouts inop. Overhaul?
Send to Furuno
29. Possible new interior cushion material (see what a good dry cleaning can do?). Fall/winter maybe
Frank will dry clean for now.
- Test fuel racks - there seems to be a problem
- Dickenson elec. fuel pump is wrong capacity, replace with lower pressure pump and leave current one aboard as a spare.
- Refit refer systems ?? Call Sea Frost and ask what if any refit should be done.
- Force 10 piezo is not working - battery or switch
- Replace key pad in on-deck Furuno display
- Refit wheel
- CQR for sale ( Manson Supreme …. get one smallish 35 lb. or so as a stern anchor, get list & discuss )
- Shower tap is a nasty trick, upside dn & bkwds.
- J-prop : send in ASAP
- Anchor sprit saddle : replace
- Replace life lines
- Swing compass when back afloat
- Re-plentish all spares kits
- Use ship’s stores first as a general rule
- Port tank vent line is holding fuel or plugged … should foam filters be replaced / serviced?
- extend main pin rails aft 1 stantion and increase no. of pins by 2 in fore pin rails
- replace lanyards on all four shrouds
- storm cover for air box out of ply w/ gasket
Bringing Cape Horn weather with us to Lunenburg
The Schooner Maggie B docked in Lunenburg at 11h00 on May 10th. We are back after 38,400 NM. We beat the gale in. It is supposed to blow 45 knots tonight. We brought Cape Horn weather with us, though they say that this is typical “spring” weather here.
We were met by all the horns on all the ships in the harbor blowing. There was also cannon fire, which was a little scary, but supposedly they were firing blanks.
We are waiting for the Federales to drive down from Halifax. Then we’ll rest up for the welcome party tonight. Fortunately the party site is only 100 feet from the boat. They have, unfortunately, canceled the fireworks due to the prospect of high winds, dense fog and heavy rain.
We wish all our shipmates and family we here to celebrate with us.
All is well.
Location: 35° 26N, 64° 24W
Wednesday, 05.07.2008
The Schooner Maggie B was at 35° 26N, 64° 24W at noon on May 7th. We are close hauled, making for our Gulf Stream entry point at about 7 1/2 knots. We are headed NNE and the wind has backed a bit to WNW, and diminished from 25 knots to 17-20. It is rather a rough ride. The waves aren’t big — the biggest perhaps only 10 feet, but the period is rather short and we get occasional unpleasant vertical drops.
We have come 172 NM from Bermuda and have 551 to go to Lunenburg. We still anticipate arrival in Lunenburg at about noon on Saturday 10 May.
It feels a bit as if the Maggie B is remembering the wave period of the North Atlantic and relearning how to best handle it. Like a skilled dancer going from the Argentinean Tango to Brazilian Samba to Nord Americano Foxtrot. We hope that we won’t be Charlestoning when we hit the Gulf Stream! We should enter the Gulf Stream about noon tomorrow. The wind should have backed to the West and the current flow is from the Southwest, so hopefully there won’t be too much excitement.
We are surprised that we haven’t seen a single bird in the last day. This kind of weather usually brings out the Stormy Petrels, but none are about. Perhaps the Gulf Stream is just too interesting, or they haven’t completed their pilgrimage back from the South as yet. We did have a lovely pod of about 15-20 Striped Dolphin (Stenella coeruleoalba) playing around our bow yesterday. It was interesting that there was one Spotted Dolphin (Stenella plagiodon) with them. At first we thought he was “Dad,” with a bunch of teenagers. He didn’t mix things up around the bow like the rest and stayed rather on the outskirts, like a distant cousin at a rowdy family swim party.
All is well.
720 NM to Lunenburg
After a lovely stay in Bermuda, the Maggie B got underway this morning and was leaving St. Georges Harbour through the narrow Town Cut at noon today. We have about 720 NM to go to Lunenburg. We hope to arrive there at about noon on Saturday, May 10th.
We have an interesting weather pattern ahead of us. Hopefully not TOO interesting. The weather has a pretty good gale passing north of us right now, with a front coming through this evening. As of this writing (1500) we are doing nine knots, headed a bit west of rhumb line, in a 20-25 knots SSW’erly. After the front we expect a more NW’erly and will be able to slide back towards rhumb line. The Commanders Weather (soon to be up on the web site), calls for it to get lighter for a day and then begin to crank up in anticipation of a deep low, due on our track about when we arrive in Lunenburg. Bermuda Weather anticipates this second low to be all the way down to 987 mb, so we are very eager to beat it into safe harbor.
We are all very focused that it is the last few miles when an inordinate proportion of accidents happen. It would be pretty silly to come 38,000 NM and then stub your toe crossing the finish line. We are going to do our best not to be silly.
All is well.
Location: 32° 23N, 64° 41W
Wednesday, 04.30.2008
The Schooner Maggie B is safely docked in St. Georges, Bermuda, at Captain Smokes Marina, at 32° 23N, 64° 41W. Our last day coming in gave us a lovely sail, though it did end in a rather heavy downpour this morning as we danced around a huge Norwegian cruise ship waiting for dawn to enter the harbor.
Bermuda is lovely, even in the rain, and we look forward to testing the Dark and Stormies at the White Horse Inn.
We expect to be here about a week, depending on the weather.
All is well.
Location: 30° 31N, 64° 13W
Tuesday, 04.29.2008
The Schooner Maggie B was at 30° 31N, 64° 13W at noon on April 29th. We were finally under all plain sail with The Bird, our G2 gennaker up, making 6.2 knots in a 10-12 knot SW’erly, straight for St. Georges. We have 113 NM to go to Bermuda and have come 833 from Antigua. It looks as if we will arrive, assuming that the wind freshens a bit, on schedule a little after dawn on the 30th. That should get us nicely tucked into Captain Smokes Marina in St. Georges Harbour before the cold front arrives with fresher winds.
We are now at that perfect point of sailing with the wind about on our beam, with just long swell and no wave chop. It is a relief to have the engine off. The big prop is stopped with a short lasso in the engine room. It is still like towing a bucket, but Maggie seems so happy to be under sail, she is not complaining.
I neglected to mention yesterday that Curtis had caught a marvelous large Mahi Mahi after a bit of a struggle. It is the biggest fish we have landed on the Maggie B. How big? Curtis is 6′ 3″ and it came up to his shoulder (photos soon up on the web). We should get six meals for five out of it. It was delicious in garlic and butter, flash fried in a hot pan and even more so the next day in a thick fish soup concocted by Rik.
Last night, or actually this morning, Curtis and I did our star sights once the moon rose enough to give us a satisfactory horizon. We use a fine program called StarPilotPC to do the math. We shot the moon, Jupiter and Arcturus and were delighted that of six observations, none were more than 7 NM from our actual GPS position. We might even be able to find Bermuda without GPS!
Bermuda tomorrow!
All is well.
Location: 28° 14N, 63° 35W
Monday, 04.28.2008
The Schooner Maggie B was at 28° 14N, 63° 35W at noon on April 28th. We were motoring north towards St. Georges at 7.5 knots in a 3-5 knot northerly. There are long swells from the north, courtesy of a gale off Newfoundland. The skies are clear and the barometer is rising. We have come 671 NM from Antigua and have 274 to go to Bermuda. We are on schedule to arrive the morning of Wednesday, 30 April.
We are still hoping to get some sailing in on this leg. There is a new low coming off of the continent which should give us a nice SW’erly starting perhaps noon tomorrow. We are slowing our speed a bit so as not to arrive earlier than dawn on the 30th. I know Town Cut into St. Georges Harbour, and I know not to try it at night.
Two more stories from Antigua. Two years ago there was a lovely big yacht at the 2006 Classic whose cockpit light was a Chambered Nautilus shell with an internal bulb. It was stunning. Maggie B has a lovely old-fashioned brass oil-fired lamp we use as a cockpit light. But when we were in Cape Town, one store specialized in ostrich eggs that had been cut and carved with designs. Many were terrible touristy things, but one was cut out with constellations and the Milky Way. I was unable to resist it. It got packed away and mostly forgotten. Arriving back in Antigua for the Classic, I got John Steele to wire it up and we now have an absolutely stunning cockpit light that both is lovely to look at directly, but also casts light shows of the galaxy around the cockpit like in a planetarium.
The second Antigua story is that when we went to fill up with diesel for this leg, we had formally checked out of Antigua, which normally allows you to buy fuel duty free. I enquired if Duty Free was available at the Cat Club and the lovely lady in charge said, “Yes, Dear, but you don’t want it.” I inquired why not, and she replied that it was more expensive that non-duty free. I asked why and she said, “The elections is coming up.” Not being able to argue with logic, I happily bought 199 gallons of non-Duty Free.
Two more sleeps to Bermuda!
All is well.
Location: 25° 16N, 63° 08W
Sunday, 04.27.2008
The Schooner Maggie B’s noon position on 27 April was 25°16N, 63° 08W. We are motoring directly north towards Bermuda in a 5-8 knot headwind. The skies are clear, the barometer is up to 1011 and there are long swells from the north. We have come 513 NM from Antigua and have 430 NM to go to St. Georges. We are on schedule to arrive Bermuda the morning of the 30th.
It appears as if we might have a nice SW’erly to blow us into Bermuda, but it may not arrive until we make landfall on the 30th.
We have been trying to fish. We have been very successful in catching lots of sargasso weed. It is a brown seaweed whose 150 cousins are attached to rocks in shallow water. Sargasso weed is the exception. It lives in the center of a giant eddy called the Sargasso Sea. This is an area east of the Bahamas Islands bounded between 25 and 30 degrees north, 40 to 60 degrees west. The name comes from the Portuguese word (they do get around!) “sargaco,” meaning grapes. This is a unique habitat that includes the Sargassum anglerfish which has the same coloring as the weed and bodies that are covered with protuberances that resemble the grapelike fronds. It is also the main breeding ground of the eels whose elvers swim to Europe in the Gulf Stream.
With Curtis’s encouragement, we broke out the sextant today. Following a ten-minute lecture on celestial navigation, we took the sun’s altitude to get an afternoon line of position. With total beginners luck, it came out within 1/10 of a mile of our actual position. I confess that we used a computer program to do the math, but still it was an excellent introduction. The computer program has very strange sign conventions (minus four time zone is represented as plus four, west longitude is minus, etc.) but once we got them right we were right on. We’ll try for a three star fix tonight and probably plot ourselves in the middle of North Africa.
Last night the moonrise was just after midnight. The half moon seemed to be cradling Jupiter, which was bright as a diamond. It was hard not to think of ancient stories of the stars and the gods.
All is well.
Location: 22° 30N, 62° 34W
Saturday, 04.26.2008
At noon on April 26th, the Schooner Maggie B was at 22° 30N, 62° 34W. We are motorsailing directly towards Bermuda, helped a little by a 10 knot NE breeze. It is 599 NM to Bermuda, we have come 345 from Antigua. The sky is mostly clear and the humidity is significantly lower. On night watch last night we had to dig out a jacket. Blankets are beginning to make their way back from the linen closet to the bunks.
When in Antigua, different members of the press and public would ask: “Whichplace is most beautiful?” or “which is your favorite harbor?” It was a tough question to answer, partially because I didn’t want my favorites overrun because they had been written up in widely-distributed sailing magazines. But it got us all thinking about what are the attributes of the “best port.” Every person values different attributes differently, but we all should be able to agree on the general attributes.
Here’s what we came up with after serious consideration over popular local beverages:
1. Technically good anchorage: Good holding, no swells, shelter. It doesn’t matter how pretty the beaches are if you are rolling out your masts in the anchorage (Fernando de Noronha).
2. Water quality and clarity.
3. Character of town: history, shops, artistic community, vibrant, culture. Not too big, not too small.
4. Attitude towards foreigners and strangers.
5. Technical support: laundry, showers, Internet, phones, water, fuel.
6. Costs.
7. Distance from amateurs. Martinique is lovely, but 1000 catamarans get rented every week and every nearby nice harbor is filled up with plastic floating
condos, many manned by incompetents. Conversely, places that attract cool
“traveling boats” and their seasoned crews are significantly more attractive.
Puerto Williams, Chile being a good example of the latter.
8. Food - local specialties.
9. Yacht support. Can you get critical supplies and skilled help? Are there
specialists who can make your life easier.
10. Security. Not just are there night watchmen at the marina, but is town and the local area safe.
This is just a preliminary list and I would love to hear more ideas of what I missed.
All is well.
Location: 19° 45N, 62° 02W
Friday, 04.25.2008
The Schooner Maggie B was at 19° 45N, 62° 02W at noon on April 25th. We were making 7.2 knots due north, motorsailing in a light SW’erly. We are flying The Bird, our lovely G2 gennaker. We have come 175 NM from Antigua and have 765 NM to go to Bermuda.
It is 4562 NM from here to Cape Horn and only 1469 left to Halifax.
The weather is clearly changing. Last night at sunset there were high cirrus Mare’s Tails. Today at noon the high clouds were mostly obscured by Alto Stratus, with some lower Cumulus working their way in. Rain showers are on the horizon to the Sou’west. The barometer is still mostly steady at 1006, but the wind has shifted around from the Sou’east to the Sou’west and increased a bit.
It would be lovely to have a few days of a nice SW’erly blow, but Commanders says that a weak low is coming through, with NW and North behind it. Whatever.
We must be trailing a big school of fish from the Caribbean. There has been a very aggressive Juvenile Masked B@@by following us and diving regularly, apparently mostly successfully. (I cannot use the “o’s” in Sula dactylatra’s name because it triggers offending language alerts in some network watchdogs). Perhaps it is time to get the lines out to share in the ocean’s bounty.
We are all beginning to settle into the watch routine for passages. But being such a short leg, we will be there before we fully get our inner clocks readjusted.
All is well.
Location: 17° 00N, 61° 49W
Thursday, 04.24.2008
At noon on April 24th, the Schooner Maggie B was at 17° 00N, 061° 49W, just a few miles off the coast of Antigua at Curtain Bluff. We were underway for Bermuda, motorsailing in a light sou’easterly. The sky is clear and the air is hot and humid. We will be happy for a little cooler weather.
We have 931 NM to go to St. Georges, Bermuda, which should take us about five days, probably arriving April 30th. The weather forecast is not particularly favorable. Commanders Weather comment was: “light winds to start and then upwind to Bermuda followed by a possible gale the middle and end of next week. Welcome home, I guess!” We should be into Bermuda before the gale.
Onboard for this leg is Frank Blair, Hannah Joudrey (aboard since Cape Town), Curtis Weinrich (aboard since Puerto Montt, Chile), and Danette Eden and her partner Rik Hansen. Danette was our landlady when we lived in Lunenburg for the completion of Maggie B and Rik spends part of the year in Russia or Northern Canada working oil exploration, and the rest of the time messing about in boats. Danette has a marvelous business in Lunenburg converting worn out sails into very imaginative high-end purses, packs and bags.
It is great to be back in Blue Water. It will probably take us most of the way to Bermuda to recover from the frenzy of Antigua Classic Race Week.
Please check PhotoAction and search in Antigua Classic 2008 for new hot photos of the Maggie B.
All is well.
Location: 17° 01N, 61° 47W
Wednesday, 04.23.2008
The Schooner Maggie B is in Falmouth Harbour, Antigua, moored at the marvelous Catamaran Club, at 17° 01N, 061° 47W. We are more or less ready for the 930 NM run to Bermuda tomorrow morning (which means at least afternoon in the Islands). The weather going north should be somewhat interesting (see Commanders forecast on the web). We hope to be in St. Georges harbour by the end of April.
I will have some photos up from the Antigua Classic Race Week, but not too many, because I was too busy racing. We all spent much of the time simply gaping at the stunning boats all around us.
Sometimes way too close. The best photographer here is perhaps Tim Wright, and he has photos up of the race at Photoaction.com
We had a lot of press attention. One day we had the official Antigua Classics film crew on board, plus writers from Wooden Boat, Boat International and Classic Yachts. There were many more coming by at different times.
There was a bit of a saga also. Regular readers remember that our J-Prop feathering propeller self-destructed in Martinique. We put the 28″ fixed prop on and it worked fine after I sawed out the prop aperture. But we’ve sailed the boat enough to know what to expect and the fixed prop is like towing a bucket in comparison to a feathering prop. In a decent breeze, a 15-20 knot beam reach, it makes easily 3/4 of a knot difference, if not a full knot. Not nice for racing.
We raced with the fixed prop on the first day and it was awful. I was faced with a mutiny. Knives were out to force me to take it off. Nigel Irens was ready to get back on an airplane, John Steele of Covey Island had a very long-suffering face, Sandy MacMillan of North Sails was ready to go to the Chinese Olympics. Did I mention it wasn’t nice?
I said the I’d take it off if we talked to the skippers of the boats we were closest to, and got approval from the Race Committee. We did that, talking especially to the Head of the Race Committee. The morning of the second race we motored out to a safe cove and jumped over with our Hookah breathing apparatus. Every boat going racing could see everything we were doing. One boat even stopped to videotape the operation.
We smoked that race and there were smiles all around, at least on the Maggie B. After the race, the skipper of one boat came to visit and inquire about the prop and what we were rated for. He had the video, and had taken it to the Ratings Committee. We told him the whole story — who we talked to and when. His boat was slow and uncompetitive, and I hadn’t mentioned it to him beforehand because I couldn’t imagine why it would be important to him. The Ratings Committee decided that I should have written them a letter asking to be re-rated and not done anything until I had a written response. Talking to the Head of the Race Committee and what he said was not relevant. I could withdraw or be successfully protested. We withdrew.
We raced the next two days without the prop. We would motor out, anchor, take it off, up the anchor under sail, race “bare,” sail in, anchor, put the prop back on and motor back to the dock. We remained gentlemen and gentle ladies, but we also took every opportunity to do entire legal “positioning” to disrupt the race plans of the boat that had ratted us out. I wonder if his video made it to You-Tube?
We all had great fun. Probably a bit too much rum, but the work and heat of the racing sweated each night’s excesses out of us. Lovely parties and kind reception for our circumnavigation everywhere.
I single-handed Maggie B on the fifth day of racing and I’m pleased to report that we came in second, despite our new, very high, “propless” rating. We had a photographer for the Race Week on board, so there should be some fun photos coming. After the morning single handed race there was gig racing in the afternoon, and the Reepicheep was well admired and much borrowed by different rowers. I regret that in the Men’s Singles I didn’t fully understand the course and when out at the head of the pack of 13-14 boats continued to a further mark and was astonished when the others turned at an earlier mark. I came in fourth. It was still a fun day and Reep won in the Woman’s Singles and the Family Race.
We are looking forward to a nice peaceful(?) Blue Water Passage.
Location: 17° 00N, 61° 46W
Saturday 04.12.08
At about sunset yesterday, April 11th, the Maggie B docked at Nelson’s Dockyard, English Harbour, Antigua. We are at 17° 00N, 61° 46W. This is probably one of the most famous marinas on the planet. It is so cool to know that we are treading on the very stones that the Hero of Trafalgar trod. The area has been marvelously restored.
All around us are the most lovely sailboats in the world, all varnished to perfection. We are definitely not entering the Concours d’Elegance. But we are doing our best to look OK after 34,000 NM. Writers from “Ocean Navigator” “Wooden Boat” and “Boat International” have asked for interviews and to sail with us in one of the races.
It is hard not to get racing fever. We are now handicapped by having a fixed propeller, which probably will take 1/4 knot off our speed. I even imagined the possibility that we could get a diver to take it off just before the race and then reattach it afterwards. But no.
After the difficulties putting the spare prop on in Martinique, we sailed up to Isle des Saintes, Guadalupe. It is still one of the most perfect anchorages in the world. The town is big enough to have several good restaurants, fast Internet and a grocery store and bakery, but small enough to feel very personal. The beaches are just lovely: clear water, white sand, great snorkeling, and lovely palm trees for shade. We got into Les Saintes at about midnight on the 9th, had a beach day on the 10th and then got up early on the 11th for the 60-70 NM to Antigua.
When we hoisted the main in Martinique, we spotted (hard to miss!) a two foot tear near the leech, just below the second reef point. The Captain, always on his toes, ordered two reef in the main, and we still had a great sail while I emailed North Sails, Lunenberg in a panic. Sandy MacMillan, our contact there calmed my fears and immediately got me in touch with North Sails, Antigua, who picked up the main on Saturday the 12th and promises it back, fixed, on the 16th so we can race the 17th. Great Service!!
All is well.
Location: 14° 32N, 61° 08W
Wednesday, 04.09.2008
At noon on April 9th, the Schooner Maggie B was at 14° 32N, 61° 08W. We were sailing on a close reach in 15-20 NE’erly Trades along the Caribbean Coast of Martinique. At noon we were just about
directly off Fort de France, the capitol and main port. It is sunny with only a few rain showers around. Martinique is protecting us from any Atlantic Swell.
Headed to Les Saintes
We are headed to Les Saintes, which is an island group just south of Guadalupe, and have about 80 NM to go. We should arrive tonight about 2200. Antigua is only 45 NM from Les Saintes.
Update on the J-Prop
I previously reported that something has gone wrong with our J-Prop feathering prop. On arrival in Cul de Sac des Marins, it would not give any pitch in reverse. We worked on it in the anchorage, lubricating it and trying different pitches and it just got worse. Finally it would only give forward or forward (either way the shaft rotated, we got forward propulsion) and then it stuck in position. We have a spare fixed prop, so we got to work to remove the J-Prop, which only took an hour in the water (using the Hookah underwater gear). Then we installed the spare fixed prop, which only took 1/2 hour. It fit perfectly on the shaft. Unfortunately it did not fit in the opening, having a shorter shank than the J-Prop. The blades would touch the wood of the hull. But we were ready for that. The prop shaft is in two sections, with a massive coupling. All we had to do was open the coupling and slide the prop shaft out a bit and reclamp the coupling. It only took an hour to get the four nuts off the coupling. But the shaft had long since fused to the housing and no amount of force, lubrication or heat guns could persuade it to slide.
So, now we have discovered another good reason to have a wooden boat. You can cut into the hull in the water and open things up enough to allow the prop to turn. Only took another hour in the water. We now can motor both forward and reverse! It will be one more thing to fix when we get back to Lunenburg. We can feel the drag of the fixed prop. We are guessing that the feathering prop gave us 1/4 to 1/2 knot more speed, which after 34,000 NM adds up.
When we put the main sail up this morning, we found a two foot rip just below the second reef luff cringle. So we quickly adapted and set the main only to the second reef. Hannah will have busy fingers tomorrow in Les Saints. We are also going to try to get professionals on it when we get to Antigua, though we would need a quick turn-around.
Cul de Sac des Marins was a lovely little harbor. Only slightly marred by 1000 rental catamarans. The restaurants were great (fresh vegetables!) and even the little supermarket had 200 different cheeses. But everything was very expensive, a combination of the weak dollar against the Euro, and the generally high living costs in Martinique. The ship stores are well stocked and have knowledgeable staff, something we haven’t experienced since New Zealand. Isle des Saintes should be a lovely break for a day or two and then we jump into the craziness of Antigua Classic Race Week.
All is well.
Location: 14° 28N, 60° 52W
Sunday, 04.06.2008
The Schooner Maggie B was safely anchored in Cul de Sac des Marins at 14° 28N, 60° 52W, Martinique at approximately 1130, April 6th. The trip from Salvador was 2732 NM. We covered the 2046 NM from Fernando de Noronha to des Marins in 10 days. Antigua is about 160 NM away.
The last day was very eventful. At approximately 2130 last night, when we were about 25 NM off of Barbados, Thomas saw a distress flare. Rising from the surface to the base of the clouds at a 45 degree angle. Color unknown as he had his tinted sunglasses on (having lost his regular glasses). He called me and we checked the radar for any targets. We were then going about 10 knots in moderate seas. We watched for another flare for a while and then called the Barbados Coast Guard on VHF. They answered, but were impossible to understand, so we gave the report as best we could.
The clearest communications equipment we have on board is the Iridium Sat Phone. The question was: “who to call?” Despite having lots of reference material on board, we only had the number of the Barbados Port Captain, which didn’t answer. But New Zealand is really well organized for this sort of stuff and I had their Rescue Center number handy, and they answered immediately. They gave me the number in Barbados, which went right through. I gave the report and suggested a helicopter search. The weather was wind 20-25 with perhaps five meter breaking swells. About an hour later I got a call from a Barbados Government boat called the Lady D, which had been dispatched. About four hours after the siting, I got a call from a rescue helicopter doing a sector sweep in the estimated area.
Today, calling the Barbados Rescue Central, the news is that the searches turned up nothing. You never know. It would have been a tough night to be in the water.
We arrived in the safety of Cul de Sac in very sloppy seas - big and unkempt - and 20-25 knots of wind. The marina said that they could find a space for us, though they were full and we hadn’t reserved. Rather like a Headwaiter who doesn’t want to be taken for granted. French. The engine had behaved a bit strange on start up, but motored us in OK. The berth they had for us required a tight turn and then backing between tightly packed buoys about 50 meters. With very shiny boats all around. All primed for the landing, after we committed to the turn, it quickly became apparent we had zero reverse. We were able to bail out, missing a lot of expensive maritime real estate by a few hairs breath. When there was a clue that something might be wrong with the engine, I should have troubleshot the problem a lot more before committing to tight quarters.
After a few tries, we found a good spot to anchor. Once established, a dive on the prop showed that the feathering J-Prop would almost go into the right setting for forward, but reverse left the blades at zero pitch. Must be something screwed in the gears. We will seek advice and pull the prop to find out what is wrong. The is the same type of prop that came off two years ago somewhere between Barbados and Brazil. Perhaps there is something in the water here? We carry a spare non-feathering prop, which we can install if we need to.
It is very strange for all of us not to have the boat moving around a lot.
All is well.
Location: 12° 55N, 58° 00W
Saturday, 04.05.2008
The Schooner Maggie B was at 12° 55N, 58° 00W at noon on April 5th. We were making 8.4 knots for Martinique, which is only 189 NM away. We have come 2531 from Salvador. It is mostly clear weather with an occasional rain shower marching through with a bit more wind. Mostly we have 15-20 knots at a relative angle of 120 degrees on our starboard. We still have a reef in the main and in the fore, which is essentially like taking in topsails in a traditional schooner. The long swells are 3-4 meters and rather unruly and splashy, but Maggie isn’t paying them much attention.
We made 224 NM in the last 24 hours. We have come 1127 NM in the last five days, or an average of 225 NM per day. We expect that when we post these marvelous times on our “story board” at the Antigua Classic, the Race Committee will increase our handicap. Whatever. Fast is fast.
We are really in the midst of Flying Fish grounds. This morning there were a dozen on deck which Curtis collected and gutted. They were delicious for breakfast, quickly cooked in a hot fry pan with garlic and butter. Hannah made raisin tea biscuits — a perfect breakfast with black, black, black Brazilian coffee! We have been out for two weeks but having no hardships.
The wind has lessened a bit and veered (Thomas says from the French “virer” - to turn) more to the East. The sailors expression for wind shifting in an “expected” direction is to veer, the other way is to back, which can bring bad weather. In the Northern Hemisphere, veering is shifting clockwise, in the Southern, counterclockwise. As an example, in Maine, if the wind shifts, backs, from South to East, trouble is coming. Conversely, veering from Southwest to Northwest is clearing for good weather.
We are about 60 NM from Barbados and are already seeing some light sport fishing boats that are essentially invisible on radar in these swells. The Watch is shifting to “Inshore” levels of attention.
We expect to be in Cul de Sac de Marins, Martinique tomorrow morning. Just in time for church, or croissants and chocolate chaude, or whatever.
All is well.
Location: 11° 06N, 54° 22W
Friday, 04.04.2008
At noon on April 4th, the Schooner Maggie B was at 11° 06N, 54° 22W. We were making 8.6 knots for Martinique. The wind has veered a bit to almost Easterly and increased to perhaps a steady 20 knots. We have reefed the fore down to one reef, like the main. We have come 228 NM in the last day, 470 in the last two days, 701 in the last three days, and 903 in the last four days (average 226 NM).
We have come 2289 NM from Salvador and have 429 to go to Martinique. At this speed, we should arrive, if God is willing, the morning of April 6th, Sunday morning.
The seas have come up a bit. In the Southern Ocean, the swells helped us along, surfing down their long sides. Here, they really don’t help as they are from a little behind abeam, and throw us around a fair amount. Jorge, our trusty Furuno Autopilot, is working very hard, and effectively. The general sensation is that of a skier doing a long traverse on a very steep hill with endless 3 to 4 meter moguls to cross or negotiate. Most of the time it is a marvelous rhythm that keeps us hanging in the windward shrouds to watch. Occasionally there is a bit of a “big guy” shoulder to shoulder hit, with the wave wanting us in one place and the Maggie B wanting something else. We are earning our fresh croissants and French Government subsidized Pinot Noir!
The drink of the islands is “Ti Punch.” White rum, sugar cane juice, and lemon. Short glass. Shaken with ice, but poured “dry.” We have our research teams ready to evaluate them in respect to Chilean Pisco Sours and Brazilian Carparhinas. Work, work, work.
We set our clocks to Caribbean Time, -4 Zulu. Same as the Eastern US. It is the first time in two years we have moved the clocks that way.
All is well.
Location: 9° 21N, 50° 54W
Thursday, 04.03.2008
The Schooner Maggie B was at 9° 21N, 50° 54W at noon on April 3rd. We were making 10 knots for Martinique. We have come 2061 NM from Salvador and have 655 NM to go to Martinique. We expect to arrive in Martinique the morning of April 6th. The skies remain a thin overcast with occasional small rain showers. The wind has been very steady from the Northeast at 15-20 knots.
We are very excited to have gone 242 NM since noon yesterday. Our best 24 hour run was 245 NM. Thomas did our best watch with 33 NM in three hours. In the last three days we have covered 675 NM, or averaging 225 NM per day. Schoonering along in the Trades!
The term “Schooner” has interesting origins. Oxford’s Companion to Ships and the Sea says that the origin is probably from the Scots word “scon” or “scoon,” meaning to skip across the water like a stone. When the first vessel of the type was launched in Gloucester, Massachusetts in 1713, a spectator said “there she scoons!” And the name stuck.
Schooners were always somewhat looked down on by square sailed ships crews, because the simpler sails were so efficient. When I worked on the Roald Amundsen, a 130 foot German sail training brig with two masts full of six square sails each, my Captain remarked that “schooner” was a Dutch word meaning “lazy man” because even a big schooner could be worked by “a man and a dog.” Hmmmm - some dog!
All is well.
Location: 7° 30N, 47° 24W
Wednesday, 04.02.2008
The Schooner Maggie B was at 7° 30N, 47° 24W at noon on April 2nd. We have come 1819 NM from Salvador and have 896 NM to go to Martinique. From noon yesterday, we have come 231 NM and as I write this (1500), we have come 236 NM in the last 24 hours. We are currently making 10.2 knots for Martinique, sailing in a nice 20 knot beam reach.
The sky is overcast, but we have avoided any rain today. Actually, a little rain would be nice as the somewhat boisterous seas keep everything, especially the Watch, wet with salt water. The Maggie B has no bad characteristics….but, every now and then she takes a sea, usually not that big a one, on her hip.
There is a sound like “whump.” By the time you hear it, it is too late. A millisecond later there is a gallon of sea water laser-focused on the tiniest opening in your gear, and striving to make it all the way to your armpits and underwear. But, it isn’t a bad price to pay for a 231 NM day. And it is warm.
Modern communications and good technical support has made this trip so much easier. Yesterday, while running the Spectra watermaker, I noticed an anomaly on the system read-out. It said that the salinity of the water being made was 0-20 PPM salt. I knew that I should expect to see numbers in the 200-300 range. We tasted the product water and it was fine. I emailed Spectra Watermachines in California, reporting my concern that I might have a failed salinity probe. Two hours later Spectra Technical Support emailed back the suggestion that we should check the connector to the salinity probe for corrosion. Curtis and I found the connector (it only took an hour to dismantle enough things to get to the probe), cleaned it and all now works fine. The watermaker has been a real star for us. It has made about 5000 gallons of water for us, which has vastly increased our comfort and flexibility. It only uses 10 Amp hours to make six gallons of water.
The water we are sailing on is, amazingly, very affected by the Amazon even though we are 200 miles from the mouth. The seawater tastes only brackish and the watermaker input water, which is usually at least 1000 PPM salt, is only 250. Lot of water in that river.
We are in good time for Registration in Antigua on the 12th, so we have changed course for Cul de Sac des Marins in Martinique. Martinique is fascinating in itself, and we will be able to get clearance there to go to Isle des Saintes, near Guadalupe, a lovely spot. We should be in Martinique in three or four days.
Thomas is already muttering about croissants and petit pain au chocolate. We were last there May 24, 2006.
Hannah has just made tea biscuits — time for tea!
All is well.
Location: 5° 10N, 44° 21W
Tuesday, 04.01.08
At Noon on April First, the Schooner Maggie B was at 5° 10N, 44° 21W. We were under sail with the main with one reef, making 8.5 knots directly for Antigua, which is 1242 NM away. We have come 1588 NM from Salvador. We are headed NW in a solid 15 knot NE trade. The relative wind is steady at about 60 degrees starboard and Maggie B is loving it.
We had our first Flying Fish on board this morning, which is appropriate because Thomas reminded us that the French call April Fools Day “Poisson d’Avril” (Fish of April). They apparently pin fake fish on people’s backs as jokes. We tried to pin the dead flying fish on Thomas, but it didn’t work.
The skies have cleared up to a high, thin, overcast. The barometer remains relatively low (remember the ITCZ) at 1002 Mb. We have resumed our varnishing and oiling of the exposed wood, though the combination of our speed and the wind keeps some parts of the deck wet with spray. Hannah has reverently touched up Tawhirimatea.
Reading Robert Fagles great translation of The Aeneid has given me the germ of an idea for perhaps the next voyage of the Maggie B - to retrace the voyages of Aeneas from Troy to Thrace to Crete to the Western Greek islands, up the Adriatic to Acroceraunia (modern ?), across to the Temple of Minerva in the boot heel of Italy, down the coast to Sicily, across to Carthage, back to Sicily and up the coast of Italy to Rome. Just a thought.
I have just heard of Robert Fagles recent death. We celebrate his life, vastly enriched by his wonderful translations of the Iliad, the Odyssey as well as his recent Aeneid.
All is well.
Location: 3° 06N, 41° 43W
Monday 03.31.2008
At Noon on the last day of March, the Schooner Maggie B was at 3° 06N, 41° 43W. We were making 9.6 knots (including one knot of favorable current) in 14 knots of wind on our beam. It is still overcast with occasional rain showers and up to 28 knots of breeze in the showers.
We have come 1386 NM from Salvador and have 1442 to go to Antigua. What is strange for me is that this is the first time that we have been going West in the last two years.
We have reefed the main down to the first reef, which doesn’t slow us , but makes her a bit better balanced in the stronger winds. One of the many advantages of a loose-footed gaff rig is that a reefed sail can still be adjusted into perfect shape. “Jiffy reefing” systems on Bermuda rigs often leave ugly-shaped reefed sails.
We seem to be in a Flying Fish nursery. We have been seeing Flying Fish regularly since Fernando de Noronha, but largish ones, up to a foot long, and mostly solo. Here we see whole schools (coveys?) get up - perhaps 20 fish at a time - but they are all only 5-6 inches long.
A few days ago I incorrectly called the Inner Tropical Convergence Zone the “Horse Latitudes.” I should have said “Doldrums.” Bill Wickett wrote with the clear clarification:
“…the Horse Latitudes are generally acknowledged to be at 30N and 30S. (+/-). This is where some the air flow lifting from the equator, (and creating the low pressure in the ITCZ,) returns to the surface. This is an area of higher pressure, and low wind speeds. This circulation is known as a Hadley cell. The northern part of this loop is where the [Northeast] trades originate from and they flow back towards the equator.”
The reason why the Trades are Northeast between the Equator and 30N, rather than straight North, is the rotation of the earth, or the Coriolis effect. For the same reason, they are Southeast between the Equator and 30S. Think toilet flushing in the Northern or Southern hemisphere.
At this speed we will be in the Caribbean in a week.
All is well.
Location: 1° 15N, 39 13W
Sunday, 03.30.2008
The Schooner Maggie B was at 1° 15N, 39° 13W at noon on 30 March. It continues to be ITCZ weather - regular rain showers with a little wind, then a wind hole, then another rain shower. We are getting good at sealing the boat up in a hurry and then opening up afterwards. One choice for the Watch is to decide on foulies or a shower. Most take a shower.
We have come 1199 NM from Salvador and have 1609 to go to Antigua. We are still being promised a decent NE Trade “tomorrow.”
The visit of King Neptune and Queen Iemanja was climatic. They arrived at about sundown between rain squalls. Fearsome! The pollywogs, Thomas and Curtis were roused up from the hold and immediately forced to walk the plank, encouraged in by sword and trident. Frank and Hannah had thoughtfully supplied their shipmates with a line to hang onto as they were dragged across The Line. They were eventually allowed out of the water only after buckets of mouldy seaweed were thrown on them, as well as startling imprecations. In the process, they were lashed by a poisonous jellyfish which left them suitably stung and marked (really!). They then had their bellies shaved by a rusty razor, forced to eat a Shellback Pill (which was like a marshmallow Peep covered in Vegemite, but worse), kissed Neputune’s disgusting green-slimed belly, and were tested and accepted as Shellbacks. They were then given Shellback Names, Thomas as Moses, which is traditional for the youngest, and Curtis as Albatross. Neptune and Iemanja departed to their realms in peace as the next rain squall closed in.
It is strange to be back in “The Pond,” though we have a ways to go. We now have our Danforth Northern Hemisphere steering compass back in place, and the Southern Hemisphere Plath stowed away for next time. The Danforth has a lot of brass, which will probably take the whole way to Antigua to get shiny again.
All is well.
Location: 0° 22S, 36° 52W
Saturday, 03.29.2008
At Noon on March 29th we were at 0° 22S, 36° 52W We have come 1025 NM from Salvador and have 1810 NM to go to Antigua. We are just a few miles short of the Equator, which we expect to cross at about sunset today.
It is typical ITCZ weather: rainy and no wind. Thomas maximized his 9 AM to Noon watch by taking a shower on deck in moderate rain. Can’t get cleaner!. Our GRIB files and Commanders, our weather router, say that we should get into steady NE trades tomorrow. We are ready for it!
The Shellbacks on board, Frank and Hannah, are feverishly preparing for the visit of King Neptune, Iemanja, and their courts. The pollywogs are hoping to be Passed without too many complications. Little do they know….
Long Blue Water passages ar great for reading and the Maggie B’s library is rich and eclectic. I have been recently through: Jorge Amado’s “Gabriela, Clove and Cinnamon;” “Harry Potter and the Deathly Hallows;” Carl Hiaasen’s “Stormy Weather;” and now started on Fagles’s translation of Virgil’s “Aeneid.” Thomas has just started “1421;” Curtis is reading Helprin’s short story collection, “The Pacific;” and Hannah is reading “Thirteen Moons” by Charles Frazier.
All is well.
Location: 2° 09S, 34° 34W
Friday, 03.28.2008
At noon on March 28th, the Schooner Maggie B was at 2° 09S, 34° 34W. The wind is calm, there are only gentle, long rollers and the sky partially cloudy with small cumulus. The barometer is steady at 1003. We have come 850 NM from Salvador and have 1974 NM to go to Antigua.
It is easy to see how, in the old days, men must have gone crazy when they were caught in these calms. This area, the Inner Tropical Convergence Zone, ITCZ, was known as the Horse Latitudes. Some books say that the expression refers to when ships got caught here and ran short on supplies and threw their horses overboard to save drinking water. We think that this is ridiculous. Why would any sailor waste fresh horse meat, given their usual rations. A much more likely explanation is that this was the area by when sailors from Europe had worked off their advance pay. That point was called “finishing the dead horse,” and sometimes was attended with a ritual which included throwing over a horse effigy.
We are used to having porpoise, dolphin and pilot whales play in our bow wave. Today Thomas spotted a small school (10-20 fish) of young tuna working our bow in the clear, calm water. Each was about two feet long and had a bright green/yellow iridescent spot just at the top base of the tail. The side and top fins were yellow. They stuck with us for at least an hour. We guess that they were chasing the smaller fish that we push up, like flying fish, but perhaps they were just hanging out.
We are doing our laundry “Blue Water” style - salt water soaping and three salt water rinses, then a final, long, fresh water rinse. We are also starting on varnishing and oiling the deck. All to make us presentable in Antigua!
We should “Cross the Line” at about noon tomorrow, and be in the Caribbean around April 9th. The weather forecast is promising us some good sailing once we are north of 2-4 degrees north.
All is well.
12 Days to Antigua
Thursday, 03.27.2008
The Schooner Maggie B hoisted anchor, set sail and headed for the Caribbean at 1250 on March 27th. We have about 2143 NM to go to Antigua, which should take us about 12 days. The sky is mostly clear with occasional rain showers about. The wind is 5-7 knots from the Southeast. There is a gentle remaining swell from the Northeast. We are motorsailing at our “efficiency cruise” rpm, for max range.
With a few Reep trips, we added 280 liters of diesel to our tanks, which should give us plenty of steaming range. We should hit the NE Trades in a few days as we pass north of about 2degN. In the Caribbean, we will probably land first at Martinique, to clear in with the French before heading to Isle des Saintes, to see if it really is as pretty as Fernendo de Noronha. Certainly, F de N, Isle des Saintes and Bora Bora are all in very much the same category, right up there with La Digue in the Seychelles.
We all quite fell in love with F de N. We rented a buggy, which is a Volkswagen chassis with two bucket seats under a small roof, and two raised seats in back which are unprotected in the open air. We called ours “June Bug.” It was the perfect way to explore the island. The main road along the island is paved, Brazil route #304, all five miles of it. The way to the dozen beaches are all dirt tracks of greater or lesser disrepair. Pretty much every beach has its own little bar/restaurant, ready with an icy cold bottle of beer for fluid replacement therapy.
One one side of the island the beaches had lovely surf, on the other - great snorkeling. After our boat jobs, we would share the rest of the day between the two sides. One marvelous beach on the quiet side was full of sea turtle nests, all carefully staked out and managed by Project TAMAR, a Brazilian sea turtle rescue, recovery and education group. Even this late in the season, we were thrilled to see fresh track of mother turtles making their way up the beach to lay their eggs. The beaches are closed to the public from 6 PM to dawn to allow Tamar to follow, research, record and assist the hatchlings. They say that they assist 600,000 hatchlings a year.
The island is nicely understated. Only 500 visitors are allowed in a day. It costs about US$30 per person per day in fees to visit. For all of us, with boat charges but after discounts, it was about US$100 per day. We were happy to pay it, especially when we were assured that all the money stays on the island and isn’t shipped to Brasilia to disappear in the budget.
There are no serious hotels on the island, almost all the places to stay are small posadas, mostly peoples houses with a few rooms for rent. There are scattered good restaurants and bars. Our favorite was the Shark Museum, which had a lovely view, great caiparinas, and served delicious shark cake appetizers.
All is well.
Location 3° 50S, 32° 24W
Sunday, 03.23.2008
The Schooner Maggie B is safely anchored off of Fernando de Noronha at 3° 50S, 32° 24W. It is March 23nd, Easter Sunday. The prevailing wind here is from the SE and we are tucked in a broad cove with another 70-80 working boats on the NW corner. Most of the island is a Marine Park and we are anchored in the only legal area. The breeze is light and the skies mostly clear.
The sail here last night was as nice as any of the whole trip. We were doing six knots in a 10-12 knot close reach with a full moon out and little wave chop with long swells and mostly clear skies. It all would be perfect except for a gale about 3000 NM away, off the coast of Newfoundland. It has sent a reminder of “home” in the form of 7-8 meter swells. The effect is enormous. There is a very hefty 20 foot high breakwater sheltering a small boat harbor. The waves are breaking over the top and full across the entrance. Trying the passage in the Reep or any other boat would be death. The Maritime Police have closed the port. Some moored fishing boats closer in regularly do the “Perfect Storm” kind of wave riding. “Tomorrow maybe better.”
The surf hitting the shore is spectacular. We have seen a few surfers outside. No one has taken a second ride. We are relatively comfortable outside the surf line, in 50 feet of water with 200 feet of chain out. Just after we set the anchor, one of the swells jumped us and tore the pawl off the capstan. One more thing to fix when we get back to Nova Scotia.
We are going to hang out here off the harbor until tomorrow, and hope to get ashore then, probably in a high speed “water taxi” with a local with his local knowledge. We are swimming around the boat, which is delicious, though the seas have stirred up the water and we don’t have the 30-40 meter visibility often seen here. If the harbor stays closed, we are off for the Caribbean, which is about 2135 NM or two weeks. We will be in Antigua April 12th for Registration in any case.
Happy Easter.
All is well.
Location: 08° 41S, 34° 46W
Friday, 03.21.2008
The Schooner Maggie B was at 8° 41S, 34° 46W at noon on March 21st. We have come 357 NM from Salvador and have 318 to go to Fernando de Noronha. Antigua is 2217 NM away. We are motor sailing in a light sou’easterly. The skies are mostly clear with scattered rain showers all around in the distance.
We have been catching a series of little tuna. About the size of a big trout. Each enough for a nice lunch for two. They go from the hook to be “introduced to the fire” with a little garlic, butter and lime juice — all within ten minutes! Delicious! We think that perhaps we have a school of juvenile tuna following us for the flying fish and whatever that our passage kicks up. The predators become the prey.
One of the high points of our visit to Salvador was when Thomas and I went to see the Bale Folclorico da Bahia. It was a marvelous intimate evening watching world-class dancers interpreting the folklore and popular dances of Brazil. One big part was dances of the Candomble, an African religion with a touch of Catholic window-dressing. In a dance representing the pantheon of their Gods (who seemed rather Greek), Iansa, Goddess of Winds and Storms, had a double “wardrobe malfunction.” We remained properly respectful lest she send us a storm.
There was also a “Fisherman’s Dance” which is still seen on the beaches of Bahia, in which Iemanja, Goddess of the Sea, is greeted by fishermen and their wives, who ask for protection and good catches. Iemanja has been added to those we toast when we set out, including grey-eyed Athena and Poseidon. Perhaps Iemanja brought us these lovely little tuna?
Finally at the Bale Folclorico was an extended set of Capoeira. It is a fighting dance brought to Bahia by Angolian slaves. Visitors to Bahia will see Capoeira everywhere in market places and plazas, though none I have seen come close to the flashing brilliance we watched at the Bale Folclorico.
Alert watchers of the numbers in the first line will note that we are almost out of the Southern Hemisphere for the North Atlantic. Soon after we leave Fernando de Noronha, we will cross the equator northbound. One minor ritual will be switching our steering compass to the northern hemisphere one. A major ritual will be the two Shellbacks on board (Frank and Hannah) introducing the two pollywogs (Curtis and Thomas) to King Neptune and His Court, and suitably initiating them to the Mysteries of the Equator.
All is well.
Location: 10° 57S, 36° 30W
Thursday, 03.20.2008
The Schooner Maggie B was at 10° 57S, 36° 30W at noon on March 20th. We were under full sail, making 8.2 knots for Fernando de Noronha. We have come 183 NM in 23 hours from Salvador and have 487 to go to F de N. Antigua is 2243 NM away. We have a nice 15-25 SE’erly that lets us just make rhumb line for F de N as we slip along about 20 NM off the Brazilian coast. It seems to us as if it has been a long, long time since we had a full day’s sail under a fair wind.
The weather is somewhat overcast with occasional rain showers marching past, messing with our wind. We should continue to have a more or less favorable wind to F de N, possibly dying out tonight.
All systems are working well, with almost nothing for the crew to do other than getting everything back in place after an extended shore period.
Back on the subject of how much we had to motor from Puerto Montt, Chile to Salvador: From Halifax to Puerto Montt was 28,833 NM. We used the engine 1527 hours (includes some before we left Nova Scotia). That is, we traveled 18.9 miles for each hour the engine was run (12 miles sailed, 6.9 miles powered?). From Puerto Montt to Salvador is 4977 NM and we used the engine 615 hours, or 8.1 miles traveled for each engine hour (6.9 miles powered, 1.1 miles sailed?). We hope to sail much of the rest of the way home.
We were saddened to hear today of the death of Capt Svend Friis Hansen, skipper The Eye Of The Wind, the tall ship which was home to Hannah and Thomas at one time. I am sure we will see him again as an albatross in our wake.
All is well.
En route to Fernando de Noronha
Wednesday, 03.19.2008
At 1300 today, the Schooner Maggie B cast off from the fuel dock in Salvador. We are headed first to Fernando de Noronha, which is 664 NM and then on to Antigua, which is 2295. Finally, we have a decent breeze and should be sailing. We really haven’t had a good, long sail since before Buenos Aires.
When we start out on long legs I usually read a poem or quote to set our minds to the task ahead. Today I read “The Sea Gypsy” by Richard Hovey:
I am fevered with the sunset,
I am fretful with the bay,
For the wonder-thirst is on me
And my soul is in Cathay.
There’s a schooner in the offing
With her topsails shot with fire
And my heart has gone aboard her
For the Islands of Desire’
I must forth again to-morrow!
With the sunset I must be
Hull down on the trail of rapture
In the wonder of the sea.
Right now the Maggie B and her systems are in great shape. The long-standing problem with the genset appears to have been a fuel clog in the switch panel, which Marcello’s boys found. The autopilot is now working and its problem seems to have been the electric motor in the hydraulic steering pump, which just needed to be disassembled and cleaned. The Yanmar main engine was not charging after our trip to Itaparica, and that turned out to be a blown 200 amp fuse, which apparently blew because the electric capstan was somewhat abused when we pulled the anchor up after it was well set in deep mud.
The amazing story here is not how tricky we were in fixing all these problems, it is how much great support we were able to get. Marcello at Centro Nautico is a wizard who also has lots of practical experience and can sniff out solutions like a police dog going after doughnuts. More amazing, though, is how well we were able to tap into expertise around the planet. Only a phone call away was the technical support at the alternator regulator company, the hydraulic steering manufacturer, Furuno USA, and, always, John Steele at Covey Island. I am not a plumbing/hydraulic/electrical/diesel whiz. I am a patient plodder who keeps all the technical manuals handy and doesn’t hesitate to call for advice. It is often very cool to work with a skilled diagnostician who is sitting at their desk 10,000 miles away.
One lovely thing happened last night in the Centro Nautico. Just opposite us was a newly arrived French boat with a husband and wife and three girls on board. The girls were about 11, 9 and 4. Polite and nautical. I lent them our copy of the Maggie B book to have read to them at bedtime. It was a great success and I was very flattered that this morning the two older girls brought back the Maggie B book and then lent me THEIR favorite two books for me to read. It was charming. I told them that if they worked hard and learned all the nautical skills, they could come and crew on the Maggie B when they got big.
We are full of water, food and diesel. We have a fair wind, a strong, fast boat and good experienced crew. We will be in Antigua on April 12th for Antigua Classic registration, and we’ll do our best to have fun getting there.
All is well.