Location 45° 43S, 74° 06W
Saturday 11.24.2007

The Schooner Maggie B was at 45° 43S, 074° 06W at noon on November 24th. We are motoring west towards our anchorage for tonight, Puerto Millabu, on Isla Clemente, at 45° 44.1S, 074° 36W. We should arrive early, at 1500-1600, in time for a shore expedition.

It is overcast, somewhat cold with occasional drizzle. The wind is light out of the west. We have come 336 NM since Puerto Montt and have 668 NM to go to the Horn.

Nautical twilight at dawn is now 0540 and twilight at sunset is 2158, or more than 16 hours of daylight. At the Horn, in a week, it will be about 18 hours.

Currently we are threading our way through the Islas Canquenes. We have seen two concrete markers in the 20 NM since setting out this morning. Otherwise, no boats, no houses, no nothing. It is wild and beautiful. The water is getting cold — 50F or 10C — there has been no more talk of morning dips.

Puerto Millabu is described as: “An inlet, around 2 miles long….surrounded by beautiful high mountains. The anchorage lies deep into the west side, facing a small beach with large round boulders, in 10 meters of water. The Rio Casma flows into the head of the inlet creating shoals and a nice white beach. The beautiful Cascada Salmon falls down the NW slope. Follow its course to the higher lakes for a great excursion. The highest hill is Monte Haddington, at 982 meters (3,222 ft.). The anchorage is subject to strong gusts in NW and SW winds.” (Rolfo & Ardrizzi, AKA “The Italians,” the authors of our best guide).

Last night we spotted several (or maybe just one fast one) dark weasels. One stunned us by diving into the water from a rock, and going underwater far enough so that we never saw it surface. We know that there are otters around, so perhaps we were mistaken as to the ID. Perhaps someone can advise us as to what a Chilean otter looks like. Those of us who have seen weasels/ferrets think that is what we saw.

Alden chose the perfect wake-up music this morning: The New World Symphony.

The weather still looks just right for a big sail south starting tomorrow morning. It looks like a three-four day NW’er, so we will have the possible chance to put some big miles in. The Armada wants us back inside at about 48 South, to go down the Messier Canal. We’ll see. Commanders has also been advising tucking back in around 48S as the SW swell is supposed to come up to perhaps 20 feet, which might be a handful if the wind is from the NW. The winds are supposed to start at 15 and crank up to 35 knots. We’ll reef early and be cautious. We plan to get lots of sleep tonight.

All is well.